Hermit's Woodshed
As the Bike Hermit makes his way back to the bike cave from Portland on Chief, Sky King thought it would be a good idea to provide a link to the updates on the Oregon Manifest Website. Some high quality photos and interviews with the builders and the judges.
Dan Boxer makes Boxer Bicycles. For the 2011 Oregon Manifest Constructor’s Challenge he came up with this “cycle truck” He told me it’s a departure from his normal bike, but he has a pretty new addition to the family (congrat’s Dan) and he wanted a utility bike that he could ride to the store and bring his son along.
One feature that does seem to recur with Boxers (I remember the same thing on his 2009 entry) is the chain catcher on the rear dropout. Instead of a cog, the 9th position on the 9 speed cassette body is a steel ring which is part of the frame. the last position of the 9 speed shift lever will drop the chain onto this ring where it stays while the rear wheel is removed in the event of a flat tire. I expressed my concern that I personally would continuously inadvertently shift onto the steel ring, but Dan said it’s a pretty short learning curve and it doesn’t happen that often.
Folk Engineered / Discovery Charter School
“An industrial designer collaborating with a shipbuilder” is the description Art+Industry gives their working relationship. My initial reaction to a plywood bike is to wonder how durable it would be. But then boats and high performance aircraft have been made from wood for a long time.
Watching this bike being ridden up hill and out of the saddle I could see no flexing of the body. The designer, Michael Downs, was riding the bike and he was lamenting not having an easier gear. Another entrant who maybe was a little surprised by the difficulty of this ride for a full on, robust utility bike.
With over 30 entries the 2011 Oregon Manifest Constructor’s Challenge is a challenge for the reporter. I have decided to break the reviews up into categories, the first installment of which will be cargo bikes. These are bikes loosely in the tradition of the Dutch Bakfiets or freight bikes with a large platform or container in front of the front wheel or in between the two wheels.
This bike was a collaboration between Metrofiets, Tonic Fabrication, Suppenkuche, Vulture Cycles, and Bespoke Cycles. You can listen to our interviewwith Phillip Ross from Metrofiets in Portland, OR.
The Oregon Manifest Creative Collaborations partner three of the world’s top design firms with accomplished custom bike builders, to push the boundaries of what a modern utility bike can be.
This bike
was a collaboration between Fuse Project and Sycip Cycles. For the first ten miles of the ride part of the challenge this bike carried human cargo. It didn’t look too comfortable, but showed that the bike was capable.
Francis Cycles is Joshua Muir from Santa Cruz, CA.
We were privileged to go along on the press tour of the Chris King factory in conjunction with the 2011 Oregon Manifest Constructor’s Challenge. I had no expectations for the tour but I came away with a better understanding of what an important company this is. It is the company that doesn’t exist in America anymore. Here is a maker of precision bicycle components that employs over 90 people. And they make everything used in their finished products. They even make their own ball bearings.
Originally known for the headset which has become the standard for durability and function (Chris has the first headset he made in 1976 sitting on his desk) the company also makes hubs, bottom brackets, cogs and lockrings, and tools for servicing their products.
The real story behind all these shiny parts is maybe as fascinating as the parts themselves. The first thing one notices on entering the factory is the smell of machine oil. And this is where the story of commitment to employees and sustainability becomes apparent. First of all the oil used here is soy based, not petroleum. The machines on the floor of a factory such as this throw off clouds of oil and here they have implemented a recovery system that recycles this oil that could be wasted and lessens the health risks to workers.
The machines also throw off a lot of shavings, aluminum or steel. And to recycle the shavings they need to be cleaned of the residual oil, which is also recycled, resulting in a barrel of oil being recovered every month or so.
We were treated to lunch in the employee’s cafe. A bean counter might not encourage building an employee cafe. But in terms of employee satisfaction and productivity, it makes sense.
The employee bike storage area was well over half full of bikes even though this was Friday and most people work four tens, Monday through Thursday. Employees gain cafe credits for riding their bike to work and they receive days off based on how much they ride to work. There is a complete locker room with showers provided for employees.
To my mind this is the best kind of bicycle advocacy, if the intent is to get more people on bikes. Many employees come to Chris King as non-cyclists. They may get an inexpensive cruiser one year in order to take advantage of the perks. The next year they might upgrade to a hybrid and the pattern is established.
Oh yeah, they make bike frames too. Chris made his first frame in 1978. Now, in a corner of the factory building, is made the Cielo line of bicycles. All of the parts for the frames including the fork crowns and dropouts are made in house too.
As much as the manufacturing process contributes to environmental responsibility, so does the fact that the components made here are made to last. Many Chris King headsets are in the third, fourth of even fifth bike of their service life. And that, my friends, is a good value.
The Bike Hermit joins the group today as the Oregon Manifest Field Trials get underway. The entrants are only allowed to take a tube and tire levers as the ride is the true test of the bikes integrity. We hear that surprises are in store along the way. Am counting on the Bike Hermit to give us a full report.
Last nights meet and greet was packed and the bikes were well received. Today’s ride wraps up with a big celebration at Chris
King. We were able to score a great tour of Chris King on Friday, feeling pretty special to be considered part of the “Press”
All of the photos used in this post were taken from the Oregon Manifest site. Credits should be given to PDXCROSS and/or Mike Davis
In 1934 a group of young riders in France organized the first technical trials, conceived to determine the best touring bicycle. Over the course of three days the entrants were required to complete a very demanding 290 mile course. Bikes incurred penalty points for any equipment that malfunctioned or failed. Bikes had to meet some restrictions in geometries and tire size (minimum 35 mm width) and generator lighting was required. Every bike also had to carry the designated 3 kg load from start to finish. The idea was to promote the innovation and development of lighter, more responsive machines.
In 2009 a group in Portland, OR started the Oregon Manifest Constructor’s Design Challenge, a one-of-a-kind design/build competition, in which some of the country’s best custom bike craftsman and select student teams vie to create the ultimate modern utility bike. Now it seems as though the history of the bicycle might slowly be describing a full circle. In the last eight decades, and particularly the last two or three, there has been a frantic, headlong rush towards the lightest possible bikes and components with less emphasis on durability and practicality. The organizers may be looking back at the beginning of the circle yearning for useful, durable bikes that can also be beautiful and can perform at a very high standard even though they are not the lightest.
Bike Touring News will be at the 2011 Oregon Manifest Constructor’s Challenge in Portland on September 23-24 to see firsthand the latest developments from the best minds and hands in the business. Never mind that there will be beer, that has nothing to do with our decision to go. We will be bringing daily reports and updates and photos to this space. If you have specific questions for any of the builders or want to see more details about anything we post while there, leave a comment and we will attempt to address them. Hopefully we will have mad pod-casting skills by then.
(Update 2/20/2012 – The Bike Touring News store now has the Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires in stock in 700 x 35c and 700 x 40c sizes in the folding version. The 26 x 2″ folding tire is due to hit North America in March,2012.)
The Schwalbe Marathon XR is frequently hailed as the best expedition/long lasting touring tire out there. The ‘XR’ was synonymous with ‘Schwalbe’, in fact, along with the regular Marathon, some think the XR helped build Schwalbe a good name and customer base. Unfortunately, in 2009 Schwalbe decided to discontinue the model. Other tires stepped in to fill the void, namely the Dureme and Extreme and the Plus Tour, but none of those had all the features that made the XR so popular.
Recently I read about a new tire- the Marathon Mondial. According to Sean at Schwalbe North America:
“……the Mondial is not a direct replacement to the Marathon XR, more of the next step in the evolution of the tire. Compared to the XR the Mondial will have the SnakeSkin sidewall which is an additional rubber coated aramid layer which helping to prevent sidewall cuts and abrasions. The Mondial also gets a modified triple rubber compound which we call TravelStar, the compound will increase road performance while also increasing the durability.”
For more information I went to the global Schwalbe website and found this about the TravelStar compound:
The Marathon Mondial has “State of the Art” TravelStar Triple Compound. Under the tread centre lies an elastic mixture for easy rolling, while there is a grippy rubber compound, for cornering traction on the tyre´s shoulder. In the middle of the tread an abrasion-resistant, harder compound offers low rolling resistance for thousands of miles.
Unpredictable gravel roads and potholes, acacia thorns: these are the treacherous tyre killers. Protection may come down to the smallest of margins such as the durability of the rubber mixture. The lightweight extremely densely woven High Density puncture protection belt reliably protects against punctures and ruptures. The light but sturdy “Snakeskin” protection provides maximum reinforcement against sharp objects that would otherwise cut the sidewall.
According to the catalog cuts I have seen, the folding version of this tire will have the TravelStar compound and the Snakeskin casing while the wire bead versions will have Schwalbe’s “Endurance” compound and their RaceGuard casing which is a double layer of nylon fabric.
Look for the folding tire in sizes 26×2, 26×2.15, 700×35 and 700×40. The wire bead tires will come in 26×2, 700×35 and 700×40 sizes. Availability in the US will be October 2011 for limited sizes and 2012 for the complete lineup. Prices will range from $48.00 to $90.00 depending on size and version.
This thread at crazyguyonabike gets a little out of hand, but in a good, funny way.
Just what is the best saddle for touring??? Drum Roll, please. The best saddle for touring is the saddle that fits your behind and allows you to ride in comfort!!
Okay maybe that wasn’t the answer you were looking for, but it is the best we have to offer. No two people are shaped the same therefore no one saddle is going to be the end all saddle for every person.
The Bike Hermit used to tour on a Brooks B17, as to be expected, over time the saddle relaxed and had a bit of “splay” He punched holes in the sides (like the Brooks Imperial) and threaded the saddle with leather (from the Tandy leather store) and that solved the problem. About two years ago he switched to a Gilles Berthoud Aspin. This saddle was stiffer in the beginning and now has molded to his shape just perfectly. He easily has 3,000 miles on that saddle with no issues. Aha, you say, I will go research and purchase a Gilles Berthoud. Well, Sky King did her best to love the Gilles Berthoud Aspin spending hours adjusting height, position, angle etc but was never comfortable. Finally she measured her sit bones and realized between the shape and width of the Gilles Berthoud Aspin, it was never going to work for her. She went back to her older Fizik’s vitesse tri and problem solved. She is back to all day, day after day saddle comfort. She does plan to try the Brooks B17 Narrow as she misses not being able to carry her Zimbale 7 liter saddlebag but for now the Fizik’s Vitesse Tri is just fine.
Here are some very important things to consider when selecting a Saddle.
Shape:
Your shape and the saddle shape need to be happy. Most Saddles tend to be either a pear shape or a t-shape. The Gilles Berthoud Aspin & the Brooks B17, The Brooks Flyer fall into the pear shape category, the Brooks Swallow, the Zimbale leather saddle, the Brooks B17 Narrow, the Fizik’s Vitesse are considered a T shape.
The width of the saddle across the widest area and how quickly it widens from the nose to the back will affect saddle comfort. Add to that the saddle position or the saddle tilt (nose down, nose up, nose level). Of course don’t forget to factor in the entire bike fit (see earlier posts)
Too Much Pear-Shape for your shape typically causes chafing in the inner neighborhood of the lower fold of the buttock, top-of-the-leg, panty line, hamstring attachment (however you want to describe it) because the saddle is too pear-shaped for the motion of your hip joints. If these are issues you have with your saddle, perhaps a T-Shaped style would work better. If you feel like you are sitting on a narrow, painful 2 X 4 a pear shaped saddle could be what you need.
Let’s get back to saddle width and length. The size of your hips or the size of your behind has very little to do with the size of your saddle, wide hips do not mean you need a wider saddle. The width between your “Ischial Tuberosities” ie) sit bones is what matters. Where those sit bones connect with your saddle makes the biggest impact in saddle comfort. Too wide or too narrow for your sit bones and the end result is pain and chafing. Sky King has a wider hip measurement than the Bike Hermit but he has a wider sit bone measurement.
Each saddle has “cheeks” on the wide back part. Sometimes the cheeks are even domed up a bit. Your sit bones are meant to land in the high part of that dome to take advantage of the padding and the overall architecture of the saddle. Saddle without domes still have a cheek area, the widest part of the saddle is where your sit bones should be resting. Measure the saddle from center of cheek to center of cheek. The saddle’s center-to-center should match the center to center measurement of your sit bones.
Next measure the saddle’s overall width. Generally the saddle’s overall width should be, at minimum, the same as the outside measurement of your sit bones OR slightly wider but NO more than 2 centimeters wider than the outside sit bone measurement. You want to be able to shift around to power up hills or use body-english around corners or just to give your butt a break, and STILL have the bones land on the saddle.
In the case of a many leather saddles your saddle must be about 2 cm wider than your outside sit bone measurement so you do not have bones contacting the metal cantle* plate.
(*rough description – the horseshoe shaped metal plate under the back of the saddle that holds the rails in place)
Measure your sit bones:
We could get all fancy and purchase memory foam or drop some dollars on a fancy gel seat specifically designed to measure sit bones and assist in determining the proper saddle width but we hate to spend money when things at hand will work just as well.
Three inexpensive options for measuring Sit Bones:
The Flour method
Take a gallon size zip lock bag, fill with enough flour for about a two inch flour cushion when the bag is lying on a flat surface. Place this bag on a hard flat surface – table or chair (we use a piano bench) Sit on the bag (preferably bare skin), mimic your bike position. Now stand up without disturbing the bag. Those two dimples/impressions in the flour are from your sit bones.
The Play Dough method
To make your dough:
One part salt, two parts flour, mix with water until it’s right for modeling.
Roll about an inch thick, cover with aluminum foil to keep it from being sticky, place dough w/ foil on a low bench, once again sit on dough (bare skin is best) and lean forward to approximate riding position since the sitbones become more narrow as you lean forward. Remove foil and allow to dry a little. The bones impression will become white first.
The Measurement
Take a millimeter tape measure and measure the impressions, recording your findings.
1. The inside edge to inside edge
2. Center of depression to center of depression, if easier, place a marble in each depression and measure the marbles.
3. Outside edge to outside edge
The Hand Method(s) of measuring
Sit on your hands, and feel for the two bones of your butt. They feel like elbows poking down into your hands.
Put the tip of your index fingers right under the part of the bones that is pushing hardest into the chair. (squish the very tip of your fingers between the chair and your sit bones)
Lift your butt from the chair leaving your hands on the chair, and have your assistant measure the distance between your fingertips. This is pretty much your center-to-center.
Then put your fingertips against the outsides of the bones. Push them right into the bones so they are on the outside of the bones. Lift your butt from the chair and have an assistant measure the distance between your fingertips. This is pretty much your outside.
Some people have sit bones that angle a lot from front to back. The “sits” are heavy thickened portions of the rami area of the pelvis and can have unique personalities of their own. You can measure again on the forward part of the heavy “elbow” bit if you can feel that yours have a definite angle. The forward portion of the heavy thick part of the bone is what your weight rests on more when you are in a more aero position. DON’T measure the thin blade like portion that is in your crotch, that is the rami and you do not want a saddle there. Measure from your backside.
Repeat your measurements a few times, average them out if you want.
You can also get these measurements by lying on your back with your knees to your chest holding a measuring tape and poking around for landmarks.
The Cutout
Purchasing a saddle with a cut out can be beneficial if you have soft tissue pressure. An easy way to help determine if you might be a good candidate is to sit (commando or in thin underwear)on a very hard surface, feet flat on the floor, pedaling distance apart. Lean forward from the hips, keeping your back straight and place your elbows on your knees. If you soft tissue is feeling overly squished you may want to try a saddle with a cut out. Do some forum research, some people love them, other’s find the edges of the cut out equally irritating. Assuming you have a good bike fit and proper saddle height, consider adjusting the angle of your current saddle as well to see if that relieves soft tissue pressure.
Length
Years ago some saddle manufacturers started adding a short version to their line. Historically the short version came about for women riding in skirts and dresses, the longer nose would catch on the dress, making mounting and dismounting more challenging. Now a short version is more about personal comfort. Reading Forums and blog post about saddle fit there are numerous opinions about both. Sky King’s Fizik Vitesse Tri is a “woman’s” saddle but it isn’t any shorter in the nose than a Brooks Swallow.
Conclusion
We agree that finding the right saddle can be tough. Sometimes despite the best research, trial and error ends up being the answer. Taking your measurements and understanding your riding style are the beginning of your quest.
For more great info on choosing a Saddle read other blogs and forums. Sky King took the measuring suggestions from posts on the Team Estrogen Forum. Great resources can be found on sheldonbrown.com, team estrogen forums, bike forums (touring). Most of all don’t be afraid to ask questions. We both ride day in day out without saddle pain on two entirely different saddles.
Somewhere I’ve heard the sentiment that youth might be wasted on the young. Sometimes I wonder if that doesn’t apply to pure dumb luck as well. When I was a good deal younger than I am now I was touring in New England. Just outside of a small Vermont town, as I started up a longish grade, and as the sun was starting its descent, I heard the telltale snap of a spoke in the rear wheel breaking. Then a moment later, because of the added stress on the remaining spokes, a second one snapped. My wheel was distorted but not too much to prevent me from wobbling back into town.
Here’s where the luck came in. There was actually a bike shop in this little town and they had a couple spokes in the right length. For whatever reason (I seem to remember it was closing time) I didn’t have them replace the spokes for me. Instead I walked across the street to a service station (told you it was a long time ago) borrowed a hammer and a screwdriver and sat on the concrete floor in an empty bay.
This was before the days of cassettes and I had a 5 speed freewheel on my Peugeot PA10, but I had no way to unscrew it from the hub. So I used the hammer and screwdriver to take off the top race in order to take the freewheel apart to access the spoke heads in the hub. I still can’t believe I was able to do it and get the spokes replaced and the freewheel reassembled without losing any of the 36 little ball bearings or the springs or pawls inside the freewheel.
Nowadays on most bikes the freewheeling part, or cassette body will be part of the wheel’s hub and the cassette, or group of cogs, will slide over the cassette body and be held in place with a lock ring.
You can see that if a spoke breaks on the cassette side of the wheel, the cassette needs to come off in order to get the broken end out and the new spoke in (did I mention I now carry spare spokes when touring? Here’s a way to do it).
Normally this requires a special tool with splines to match the lock ring, a big honkin’ wrench to turn the tool and another big wrench called a chain whip to keep the cassette cogs/body from turning. The Unior 1669 cassette lock ring tool weighs just a few ounces and can loosen the lockring and tighten it again with minimum fuss and save your bacon.
Using this little beauty to loosen a cassette lockring is not exactly intuitive. The first step is to remove the wheel and the nut on the quick release skewer. Then the tool can be slipped into place with the teeth of the tool meshing with the lockring teeth. Now the outside of the tool is flush with the end of the hub axle cones or adapters and the wheel can be put back on the bike and the skewer tightened to hold it in place. The tangs on the tool need to be pointing down in order to slip in between the derailleur hanger and the chain stay.
Now, giving a mighty effort with both hands on the crankset, the lockring can be loosened. When re-installing, the rear wheel is manually turned backwards while holding the plastic plate on the opposite side to protect the paint on the chainstay. Brilliant, really.