April 2017 – Hermit's Woodshed

We get lots of questions about shelter from folks getting started in bikepacking. What shelter is best? Can I use the ____ that I already own? How do I know which shelter to bring on a given trip? In this post, we’ll offer three perspectives on the best bikepacking shelter and try to answer some of those questions!

While many people already do some kind of camping, many shelters that would be appropriate for car camping or even backpacking are not well-suited for bike travel. Space and weight are at a premium when traveling by bike, so heavy and bulky shelters are a liability. In selecting a shelter for bikepacking, there are a few key factors to consider:

Sleeping Comfort
Protection from the Elements
Interior Space & Gear Storage
Ease of Site Selection & Setup
Packed Size/Weight

Obviously, many of the above factors can change dramatically depending on weather, environment or season. Plan Ahead and Prepare for the conditions you expect to experience. Any shelter will offer some level of versatility but some excel only in certain conditions. Also, every person has their own preferences, likes and dislikes when it comes to shelter. In this post, we’ll offer perspectives from the Bike Touring News crew on the different shelters we use. What shelter do you prefer for bikepacking? What did we miss? Read through and add to the discussion with a comment below!

The Bike Hermit’s Preference: The Hammock

Several years ago, I came across some articles about stealth camping – or “hiding in the woods” as some people call it – on an obscure site called crazyguyonabike.com. The author’s choice of shelter was a Hennessy Hammock and – for some reason I can no longer remember – the idea of bike touring with a hammock appealed to me.

Not many spots for a tent

The design of my Hennessy Hammock impresses me every time I use it. The hammock is attached to and suspended from a ridge line which also supports the enclosing insect netting. A separate rain fly keeps the sleeper dry and/or out of the wind. Upgrading from the stock rain fly to the Monsoon rain fly creates a space around and under the hammock big enough to park the bicycle out of the rain. Hennessy sells a 4-season SuperShelter system consisting of a second layer of nylon on the bottom of the hammock which creates a sleeve where an insulating pad can be inserted. My experience is that the hammock is very cold to sleep in without the 4 season system.

Worries about sleeping in a “hammock” position and only being able to sleep on ones back are mitigated by the asymmetrical design of the Hennessy; once in the hammock the sleeper can put his feet to one side and his head to the other and the hammock offers a flatter, even if still not completely flat, support. I am not able to sleep face down but I can sleep comfortably on either side. This is obviously a big plus for side sleepers who struggle for comfort when sleeping on the ground.

People always ask what I do when there are no trees. The rain fly, when staked at one end or tied to a sagebrush, and supported at a higher point by the bike or a tree or a fence post at the other end makes a dandy shelter. If the night is cold the hammock can be used laying on the ground under the rain fly as a sort of cocoon. In this configuration, the hammock becomes a sort of tent/bivy/hammock hybrid shelter. The benefit of sleeping suspended is lost and setup can be tricky but this capability extends the range of conditions where a hammock is functional.

The Clickstand bike support as a tent pole!

On the last couple of trips I have been using Hennessy’s SnakeSkins which stay attached to the ridge line and simple slip over the entire hammock and pad and swallow the whole thing up leaving a long, fat, nylon snake that can be stuffed into one half of a pannier. This is a much faster way to set up and take down the hammock.

The SnakeSkins fold out of the way on the ridge line when the hammock is in use and just slide down from either end to make a quick stuff sack.

This was to be a very cold night. The fly was on top of me by morning with the weight of a heavy layer of frost. This is the Monsoon Fly.

Pros:

Very comfortable – none of the pressure points associated with sleeping on the ground
Warm enough for most conditions when used with the two layer insulation system
Can be used on uneven, sloping, rocky or wet terrain
Completely weatherproof
No condensation
Packs relatively small – no tent poles.

Cons:

Can’t always be suspended
Not necessarily lighter than a good tent
Not ideal for relaxing – minimal interior space
Not as private as a tent – hard to dress or undress in a hammock
Makes some people feel claustrophobic

Sky King’s Preference: The Tent

While the Bike Hermit and Sky King are both huge fans of the Hennessy Hammock there are situations where a tent is a more practical shelter, especially in desert environs where trees are scarce. Sleeping on the ground in a hammock is an option, though one without most of the hammock’s benefits. Comparatively, a good tent offers increased comfort and space at roughly the same weight and pack size as the hammock, when divided among a team of two.

Big Agnes Angel Springs UL2 in the Owyhee Canyonlands

For our first couple of “let’s take the tent trips” we used our 3-person Kelty – a great tent. We bought it for backpacking primarily because it was roomy – with two vestibules and two doors – making for easy entry/exit and gear storage. However, it is a bit bulkier than we’d like for bike trips. We bit the bullet and now own a Big Agnes Angel Springs UL2. We gave up the double entrance, meaning someone is getting crawled over for the middle of night nature call. Like most tents, it incorporates a rain fly vestibule, allowing for a place to tuck gear out of the weather.

We carry the tent for most of our desert riding, especially in new terrain where we aren’t certain of the tree situation. Site selection – especially in areas where large trees are few and far between – is relatively easy with a 2-person tent. The tent’s footprint is relatively small, but very hard or soft ground can present guyline challenges. On surfaces where stakes won’t hold or can’t penetrate, you’ll have to get creative as most tents must be staked out for a proper pitch.

Weight wise, the combination of tent and sleeping pads is roughly equal to that of two hammocks without pads. We can divide the load between bikes and packed volume equates to about the same as the hammock. For teams of two who don’t mind sharing space and gear, a tent makes an appealing option. Solo adventurers may find the packed weight and size burdensome unless they are willing to spend big bucks for high-end, ultra-light models.

Pros:

Easy entry and exit.
Relatively easy site selection.
Vestibule space to keep gear dry.
Space to sit up and move around inside, especially nice if bad weather hits.
Tent components can be divided between bikes, decreasing each rider’s load.

Cons:

Heavier and bulkier on average.
Higher cost for lightweight options.
Tent poles can be difficult to pack on a bike.
Potentially tedious and time-consuming setup and takedown.
Condensation can be an issue in certain conditions.

Ryan’s Preference: The Bivy Sack

Bivy is short for “bivouac,” which is a fancy word for making camp. “Bivouac Bags” or “Bivy Sacks” are essentially waterproof sleeping bag covers and have been used since time immemorial by soldiers, alpinists or anyone else who needs a simple shelter that can be quickly deployed in nearly any site.

Twilight falls on the author’s campsite in the Owyhee desert.

There are a wide variety of bivy sacks on the market intended for a range of purposes. Ultralight emergency bivvies are intended to help you survive an unplanned night out. They are generally inexpensive, pack small, weigh next to nothing and offer little in terms of comfort. Some ultra-minimalist bikepackers use shelters of this type for racing but they’re planning on sleeping 2-4 hours per night, if at all.

The more fully-featured bivvies are designed for alpine climbing or similar pursuits. They typically employ sturdier construction, waterproof/breathable fabrics and may even incorporate some kind of additional structure to increase space and ventilation. If you’re looking for a full night’s sleep or expect anything other than perfect weather, this is the way to go.

The insect mesh on some full-featured bivvies can be a major plus in buggy locations, such as this creekside camp on the 2014 Oregon Outback.

Even though a full-featured bivy can weigh as much or more than an ultra-light tent, it is significantly less expensive, more durable, simpler to pack and ultimately easy to deploy. For me, this is the bivy’s main advantage. Any piece of level ground large enough to lay on can be your campsite and the shelter is ready to use within seconds. This allows you to spend more time riding and exploring rather than searching for an appropriate site to pitch your tent, hang your hammock or fly your tarp. No stakes, guylines or trees required! There is also nothing quite like laying on the earth with no roof over your head and watching for shooting stars on a clear night while you drift off to sleep!

Sleep kit for the 2014 Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400. Simple and reliable.

A good waterproof/breathable fabric is the key to the bivy’s success. The fabric used in my Black Diamond Bipod Bivy features a fuzzy, nappy surface on the inside, allowing it to absorb moisture and disperse it across a wider area of fabric. This prevents droplets from forming and speeds moisture transport through the fabric. I have had some condensation form on the floor panels (made from a different, less breathable material) but never on the upper portion of the bag. I highly recommend that any bivy you purchase feature similar technology.

Also, consider the volume of your sleeping bag and pad. You’ll lose the loft and warmth of your sleeping bag by cramming it into an undersized bivy, especially around the foot. If in doubt, go for a larger size. This is especially true if you plan to use a thicker, inflatable pad or a winter-weight bag.

A coffin-shaped rain shadow after a wet night on the Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route. Should have packed the tarp!

Even with the best breathable fabrics, it is always best to keep any bivy at least partially unzipped to allow moisture to vent out, especially if you’re going to bed wet or attempting to dry wet gear in the bag overnight. Therefore, it is wise to bring along a tarp to create additional shelter if you expect wet conditions. A tarp flown over the bivy allows you to leave the head open to vent moisture and prevent claustrophobia. Nobody likes sleeping in a waterproof coffin (see photo above). The tarp will also provide shelter for cooking, changing clothes, packing or other camp chores. I use a simple 8×10′ silnylon tarp that packs to the size of a softball and weighs around 200g.

Pro:

Easy Site Selection
Ultra-Fast Setup & Takedown
Simple Packing
Inexpensive
View of the Sky!

Con:

Claustrophobic When Zipped
Minimal Interior Space
Condensation Issues
Loss of Loft in Sleeping Bag
Not Particularly Light

Conclusions

As we’ve learned, every different shelter has its merits and a set of ideal conditions for use. You should select your bikepacking shelter taking those merits and conditions into account, along with your personal preferences and budget. Every bike traveler is different, and so is every journey! We hope this post has provided some guidance and that you’ll have many comfortable, peaceful nights out on your bikepacking trips!

What did we miss? What shelter(s) do you use and why? Let’s keep the discussion going in the comments below! Thanks for reading!

The stakes are high when traveling far into the backcountry by bicycle. The potential success or failure of your trip is (literally) riding on your wheels. A mechanical malfunction at the wrong time can leave you in a very serious situation. Like teeth, taxes or electricity, your bicycle wheels are easy to ignore when they aren’t causing problems, but can leave you in a world of pain and trouble when things go bad. Fortunately, most of these kinds of problems can be prevented by choosing appropriate equipment and ensuring it is well-maintained before heading out for a trip. This is especially true when talking about wheels.

In this post, we’ll discuss what makes a good bikepacking wheel, how to evaluate your current wheels and some points to consider when shopping for new wheels. Hopefully we’ll be able to help you enjoy your bikepacking adventures with no wheel-related malfunctions!

Reliable wheels are essential when traveling though rough, remote areas.

In general, we think good bikepacking wheels should be durable and reliable above all else. Gram-saving components will make precious little difference in the ride of your bike when loaded down with 35 pounds of gear and failures are much more than a minor inconvenience when you’re two days from the nearest town. Fortunately, most truly trail-worthy mountain bike wheels are built to handle pretty rough treatment and won’t suffer greatly under the added stress applied by a loaded bike. However, many lower-end wheelsets are not built with long-term durability in mind.

Are your wheels ready for bikepacking? Many stock wheelsets are not. Bike manufacturers often cut cost on wheels when spec’ing bikes for middle-of-the-curve riders. Even many high-end bikes are shipped with inferior wheels that don’t hold up to hard riding. However, it isn’t always easy to tell a high-quality wheel from a cheap look-alike. In addition, even top-flight wheels can be a liability if they’re nearing the end of their useful life.

There are a few ways to evaluate your wheels for quality and condition, so let’s get into those:

Consider their Service Record

Assuming you’ve put some hard miles on your wheels, perhaps the simplest measure of quality is their service record on the trail. So, how have your wheels performed so far? Have they needed regular re-truing? Have you broken any spokes? Do the hubs make any funny noises or need repeated bearing adjustments? If so, you’d be wise to consider repairing or upgrading your wheels before taking off into the woods. If they’ve taken some abuse with no ill-effects you’re likely to be in good shape. If you’re unsure about any of these points, a trusted mechanic can help assess your wheels.

However, just because you haven’t had issues yet doesn’t mean they won’t crop up in the future. The key here is preventative maintenance. We’ll talk more about that in a bit. For now, let’s take a closer look at your wheels and see if we can evaluate them for quality and condition.

Check Those Spokes

A spoke is a spoke is a spoke, right? How big of a difference do spokes really make? Well, imagine if the Golden Gate Bridge was built with suspension cables made from cheap steel to cut cost. Bicycle wheels and suspension bridges have a lot in common. Spokes made from poor-quality steel will have a much shorter lifespan and will be prone to breakage. Quality brands like DT Swiss, Wheelsmith and Sapim mark their spokes, either on the head (DT, Wheelsmith) or just below the j-bend (Sapim). Cheap spokes will have no mark at all or one of a handful of markings such as a star or uppercase “S” or “N”. If you’re curious, you can investigate the mark on your spokes using this extra-nerdy Spoke Head Identification website.

Quality spokes from DT Swiss. Their butts are visible if you look closely.

A butted spoke is also a definite indicator of quality. Butted spokes are tapered in the center and thicker at the ends. Sometimes the butts will be clearly visible. If not, you can feel for the taper by grasping the spoke near the nipple with your thumb and forefinger. Slide your fingers up the spoke and you’ll feel the diameter decrease if your spoke is butted. A butted spoke distributes stress along that slender center section rather than focusing it at the j-bend or threads, improving durability. As a happy side effect, they are also lighter.

Regardless of quality, any bent or gouged spokes can cause problems or break prematurely. Bends typically happen when an object lodges in the wheel as it turns or through impact. Gouging most often occurs on the drive-side spokes due to the chain shifting over the largest cassette cog. Cassette removal may be necessary for this inspection.

Inspect Your Rims

Rim failure can be sneaky!

As we discussed in a previous post, single-wall rims are wholly inadequate for bikepacking. Fortunately, even entry-level mountain bikes typically feature a double-wall rim. Much like spokes, the quality of a rim can be difficult to assess. Rim makers such as DT Swiss and Stan’s are at the top of the original equipment game. WTB and AlexRims are common in the middle of the range. Fortunately, even many inexpensive rims can hold up to hard riding if kept true and properly tensioned.

Of course, even the best rims will suffer the ill effects of high mileage, hard riding or abuse. If your rims have any major dents or bends you’d be wise to replace them before a big trip. Also, check the nipple seat for cracks. This is a common failure mode on quality wheels that have reached the end of their life. On a bike with rim brakes, you should also inspect the brake track for excess wear.

Evaluate Your Hubs

Formula hubs are typically affordable and reliable. They’re common on quality stock wheels and hand-built options.

Even inexpensive hubs rarely fail but you’d still be wise to evaluate their condition before heading out. Is there play in the bearings? Try to push the wheel side-to-side while clamped in your frame or fork. Do you feel any knocking or play? Remove the wheel and turn the axle end by hand. Do the bearings feel rough when you turn the axles? Does your freehub make odd noises when coasting or fail to engage when you start pedaling? If your hubs exhibit any of these signs you’d be wise to service them before hitting the trail.

Steer Clear of “Wheel Systems”

Wheel Systems may look fast and flashy but sacrifice reliability and serviceability.

We have seen a nearly infinite number of departures from the traditionally-spoked design as manufacturers continue to reinvent the bicycle wheel. Some of these variations may offer a performance benefit for competitive cyclists. Most simply want to stand out from the crowd and appear unique. Regardless of the result, they accomplish this at the expense of durability and serviceability. You may be wise to consider a replacement if your wheels have fewer than 28 spokes, nipples that aren’t square or spokes that aren’t made of stainless steel with a j-bend at the hub. Fortunately, most bike makers are using more traditional wheels on their mountain bikes these days.

Preventative Maintenance is Key!

Assuming your wheels pass the test above, you’ll want to make sure they’re in the best possible shape before you head out for your trip. Wheels that are properly trued and tensioned will be much less likely to go out of true or break spokes. Hubs that are properly adjusted and lubricated will very rarely fail, even under demanding conditions. If you’re not a top-flight home mechanic you may want to leave this job to a professional. A skilled mechanic will also be able to update you on the condition of your wheels and help you make preventative repairs to avoid untimely failures.

Need an Upgrade? Go Hand Built!

A front wheel comes together in the Bike Touring News workshop.

If your wheels aren’t up to the task or if you’re just looking for an upgrade you’d be well-advised to go hand built. Unless finished by a skilled wheel builder, machine-built wheels are often undertensioned and tend to need repeated truing even if they are built with quality components. A hand built wheel allows you the choice of components specific to your application and the ability to customize to your heart’s content. A good wheel builder will also build to precise, even spoke tension and take steps to remove the stresses that cause wheels to go out of true, resulting in a very durable, reliable wheel built specifically for your riding style and intended use. They don’t have to be expensive either. Our prices for hand built wheelsets typically start around $300 and go up from there depending on options. We build a large number of bikepacking wheels here at Bike Touring News and would love to talk with you about your dream hoops!

If you’re considering a new wheelset, think about incorporating a dynamo hub into the build. The benefits of dynamo lighting and charging are massive, even if you don’t expect to do a great deal of riding after dark. With a dynamo light you’ll never have to worry about charging or replacing batteries or leaving your light behind. If you’re traveling off the grid and need to charge electronics, there are a also a variety of USB charging options powered by your dynamo. That front wheel is already turning over; why not put it to work? We offer a wide range of hubs, lights and chargers for every budget and application but that is a subject for another post!

Hand built and dynamo equipped! These 27.5+ wheels are ready for anything!

It is difficult to understate the value of solid, reliable wheels for bikepacking. Good wheels are the best upgrade you can possibly make and are worth their weight in gold. We hope you’re feeling better equipped to evaluate your current wheelset or consider what you may look for in an upgrade. As always, feel free to drop us a comment to ask a question or share your experience. Have you ever had a bike trip hijacked by wheel problems? What qualities do you look for in a good wheel?

Thanks for reading and keep on pedaling!