Categories
Hermit's Workshop

Tune-Up For Touring the Southern Tier

photo of two bikes in the shop

What should the cyclo-tourist do to make sure the bike is ready for a several week long bike tour? A brace of custom Independent Fabrications touring bikes were recently brought in to the shop to be prepared for a ride from Florida to New Mexico along the ACA Southern Tier route. These bikes have been well used over the years and provide a good example of what happens to components with many miles and little maintenance.

Drive Train
The rotating parts in the drive train will wear out first because- friction. And the weakest link in the drive train chain is- the chain. Chain links will not “stretch” but the pins which hold the links together, using a tight interference fit, will wear down as the links pivot around them. A chain with 116 links can elongate significantly when the pins connecting each link wear even a little bit. 800 miles of riding in sandy, wet conditions can cause enough wear to warrant replacing the chain. Even in dry conditions it’s a good idea to check the chain regularly after 1,000 miles or so. A new chain will have 1/2″ between the center of one pin and the center of the next and this can be measured with a tape measure or a specific chain wear checking tool. If there is 1/16″ or more elongation over 48 or so pins, which would be 24″, then it’s time to replace the chain before it starts to wear the teeth on the chain ring(s) and cassette cogs to the point that a new chain won’t match the new tooth profile.

In this case the chains on both bikes were worn to the point that there was no question that the chain rings and cassettes would all need to be replaced.

photo of two bike chains side by side
I lined up the pins on the old chain (bottom) with the pins on a newer chain, then checked the opposite end……….
photo of two bike chains
The older chain on the bottom has elongated in overall length by over half the length of one link
picture of bicycle chain rings
Notice the shark fin shape on most of the teeth on the old, worn rings. These now have a profile, or pitch, which will not match the pitch of a new chain

Replacing Chain Rings
To replace chain rings the crank set needs to come off the bike. There are several different standards for crank interfaces and each one of them requires a specific tool to remove the crank set. There are also varying chain ring bolt patterns across crank makes/models. Replacement chain rings need to be sourced which have the corresponding number of bolts and the same “bolt center diameter” (BCD) dimension. Most chainrings can normally be used on other manufacturers cranks as long as the number of bolts and the BCD is the same, but some manufacturers make that more difficult- in some cases making some of their own chainrings incompatible with even their own cranks of the same model which might be of a different vintage (looking at you Shimano). So it is best to get the rings from the same maker as the crank and with the same model designation.

Image showing alignment of chain rings.
Make sure the new rings are aligned using the little tabs or pins between one pair of bolt holes
Image of new chain rings being attached
Pay attention to the bolts when removing the old rings. Put the new rings on the same way.

Bottom Bracket
Usually if the bearings in the bottom bracket (in this case, the external bearings in bottom bracket cups) spin freely by hand with the crank removed, the bottom bracket won’t need any attention. Sometimes it’s a good idea to take it out anyway to check the inside of the bottom bracket shell for corrosion or water. These were pretty grungy and I quickly cleaned them with a stiff brush dipped in kerosene and then wiped them down.

image of dirty bike
Eeeeyewww….
image of bottom bracket removal tool
External bottom bracket cup tool
image of bottom bracket shell
All Clean! I will clean up the internal threads as well. Now is a good time to look over this high stress area for any hairline cracks in the bike’s frame.
image of bottom bracket cups and cleaning tools
Cleaning the bottom bracket cups with kerosene, while being careful to not contaminate the sealed bearings.

Cassette
Judging by how worn the chains were on these bikes it was assumed the teeth on the cogs of the cassette were worn beyond salvage, and so the cassettes were replaced. Details for that procedure are outlined in this post.

Wheels
As outlined in this post, brake pads grinding the side of a rim can, over time, wear the walls of the rim so thin that the wheel fails. The wheels on these bikes showed significant rim wear and, upon further inspection, the rims were actually cracked at the spoke holes. Needless to say, new wheels were laced in the Hermit’s Workshop using the same hubs. The go to, economy, bullet-proof rim of choice in this case was the Mavic A319.

image of bike rim
Mavic’s A319 rim. Double wall, double eyelet, tight manufacturing tolerances.
image of cracked rim
The spoke holes are a high stress area on the rim.

Shifting and Brakes
Derailleurs
As long as the springs are still stiff and there is not excessive play at the hinged points and no pieces are broken off or bent, derailleurs can be cleaned, lubed and adjusted and will be almost good as new. I use the same stiff brush dipped in kerosene to get the big chunks off, then wipe everything off before blowing the grit out of the nooks and crannies with compressed air. Dri-Slide Bike Aid lubricant is a very thin petroleum based lube that will penetrate the tiniest voids and leave a dry film lubricant. This works great on the pivot points of derailleurs and brakes.

Cables and Housing
Fresh brake and shift cable and new housing will almost always improve the shifting and braking on the bike. Kits are sold which include everything needed except for a good set of cable cutters. Standard side cutters won’t work with these stranded cables and will just create a frayed, unusable mess and they will crush the ends of the housing.

Brakes
The pads on these rim brakes were old and brittle which reduces the efficiency and is hard on the rims. These particular shoes incorporate replaceable pad inserts which are held in place with a small cotter pin. If the shoe does not have replaceable inserts then the shoe itself can be replaced. Our selection of shoes, pads and cables should cover most situations.

image of brake shoe
Once the little pin is pulled out from the top of the holder, the old pad slides out towards the rear. A new pad slides in and a new pin presses in to hold the pad in place.

It’s almost time to take the bike out for a test spin to run it through all the gears and make sure the brakes work correctly. But first, checking to make sure all the bolts and connectors for all the components and accessories are tightened and that everything is adjusted properly will prevent any embarrassing (or painful) mishaps on the test ride. The last step, typically, is to install new handlebar tape. Now one can enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done and the confidence that the bike will perform well on tour.
image handlebar tape

Categories
Hermit's Workshop

Disc Brake Pads, When to Replace Them

Disc brake pads, like rim brake pads, wear out. But unlike rim brake pads which are out in the open and easy to see, disc brake pads are hidden inside the brake caliper housing and are a part of the mysterious (to some) inner workings of disc brakes. Out of sight, out of mind. It’s not rare that a customer brings in their disc brake equipped bike and complains that the brakes are not working right. Sometimes all it needs is a cable and piston adjustment or, in the case of hydraulic disc brakes, a line bleed, but most often the pads are just worn down.  With cable actuated brakes there are dials on either the outboard side of the caliper or on both the outboard and inboard sides. As the pads wear the piston(s) need to be dialed in so the pad(s) move closer to the rotor. Close enough that when the brake lever is pulled the pads will clamp the rotor with enough force to stop the bike, but not so close that the pads rub on the rotor when the brake lever is released. Hydraulic disc brake have no such adjustment and rely on the hydraulic fluid to keep the correct pad to rotor spacing.

Hydraulic disc brakes will have a hydraulic line attached directly to the brake while a cable actuate brake will have a short section of braided steel cable attached to the brake.

p1015539

p1015538

A thin block of braking compound is bonded to a steel or aluminum backing plate to form the brake pad. A pair of brake pads with a spring sandwiched between them are inserted into the brake caliper and held in place by the spring’s tension and/or with a bolt or a cotter pin. The spring also works to keep the pads separated and away from the rotor when not braking. The compound on a new brake pad is about as thick as a nickel. When, by visual inspection, the compound is as thick as a dime or less it is time to replace the pads.

BB7
An Avid BB7 brake pad
nickel thick
The braking compound on a new pad is about the thickness of a nickel.

By standing in front of the bike and sighting along the plane of the brake rotor where the rotor passes through the brake pads the thickness of the remaining brake compound can be seen, usually without removing the wheel. The rear pads can be checked the same way by sighting from the back of the bike. If it’s difficult to see, the wheel may need to be removed for easier access. Replacing disc brake pads is not difficult but it can be a little fiddly getting everything in the right place and adjusted. Every model or make of brake will have a slightly different process for changing the pads but instructions can be easily found on the manufacturer’s website.

view of disc brake rotor
This is the caliper of an Avid BB7 cable disc brake

Brakes are sort of important on a touring bike; being able to stop or slow down is good. This is one of those things we recommend people know how to deal with. Maybe not so much on an inn to inn tour or a cross country, credit card tour, but definitely for someone who will be out for weeks or months without the luxury of a decent bike shop or mechanic. Disc brake pads are small and light too so it’s easy to carry spares.

Categories
Hermit's Workshop The Touring Bicycle Wheel

When To Replace a Worn Wheel Rim

It’s early morning in Moab, Utah when the still air is violated by the sound of a small explosion and the clang of scraping metal. My friend’s rear wheel has come apart and is a twisted jumble of aluminum rim, steel spokes and rubber. For the first time, I realize that soft rubber brake pads can wear through metal. Sand and other grit in a slurry with oil and who knows what other chemicals get embedded in the pads and act like a grinding disc to wear away at the relatively soft aluminum braking surface of the rim. Once the braking surface becomes too thin to provide structure to the rim, the forces of the tire bead can blow it apart. Here is a visual example of what I am talking about.

The braking surface on a new rim is flat, if not a little concave.
The braking surface on a new rim is flat, if not a little concave.

A worn rim braking surface.
A worn rim braking surface.

The concavity of the worn rim is visually apparent, but it can also be felt by the fingertips. Lots of times this is just a judgment call. Some rim makers machine a groove in the circumference of the rim’s braking surface and others create three or four small dots or indented holes at intervals around the rim. Once these indicators are no longer visible it is time to replace the rim.

Check your rim brake bicycle’s rims. If the braking surface feels like it has a little concavity to it, replace it before you go on the next long tour.

Categories
Bike Touring Equipment Hermit's Workshop Idaho Planning Resources

Packing for the Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400

Greetings!  I’m a new voice here so I’ll briefly introduce myself.  My name is Ryan King and I’ll be riding the inaugural Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400 bikepacking race with the support of the good folks at Bike Touring News.  I’ve done a small handful of rides like this, including the Oregon Outback in May of this year and a four-day trip on the Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route in July but this will be my first solo, race-type bikepacking trip.  I’ve always sought out new ways to push my limits as a rider and am excited (and a little nervous) about seeing what I’m capable of through this test.  As a first-time “racer” I’m no expert at any of this so I hope that I can offer some insight into my approach to this event and help others learn from my successes and mistakes while encouraging them to undertake similar challenges of their own.

Bicycle travel can be as simple or complex as you want to make it.  I think this is part of why I enjoy a bikepacking-style approach and make every effort to streamline and simplify my trip rather than finding ways to bring more and more gear.  This takes a good deal of planning and head-scratching sometimes but the joyful freedom of pedaling a bike packed with everything you need and nothing you don’t is well worth the extra work ahead of time.

So, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty.  What do you bring on such a journey and how do you carry it?  Let’s start with the “how” and then get into the “what” after that.

 

Luggage

For me, the first decision isn’t so much what to pack as how to carry it.  The carrying capacity offered by traditional rack-and-pannier setups is appealing (and ideal for longer trips) but their bulk makes them impractical when one intends to travel light and fast over more rugged terrain.  The benefits of bikepacking-style luggage have been extolled elsewhere but the main advantages for my purposes are lighter overall weight, improved aerodynamics and more clearance on narrow trails or when pushing the bike.

My setup differs slightly from the “standard” bikepacking kit in a couple of ways.  First, I prefer not to carry a backpack or hydration pack so I use a half-frame bag that fits under the top tube with room for water bottles in their cages.  The frame bag does fit a 100 oz. hydration bladder to stretch my water-carrying ability when needed.  Also, my bike is built around drop bars and a medium-size front rack, so I use a rack mounted handlebar bag rather than a handlebar harness.  This allows me to carry odd shaped, non-compressible items and offers fairly easy access to all of the bag’s contents without having to unpack.  For routes consisting of roads and easy singletrack, I find this setup to be ideal.

Although it can create something of a packing nightmare when trying to find space for everything, I find it important to place constraints on the amount of gear I’m able to carry by not allowing myself a place to put it.  This forces a higher level of planning and prioritization that pays off if done right.  Of course, there are potentially serious consequences to leaving a key piece of gear at home but experience and research will be your guide when it comes to what really matters.  Overall, a lighter bike is more fun to ride, you’ll get up the climbs with greater ease, cover rough terrain more easily and be able to enjoy your time in the saddle much more.  If your trip involves more time spent in camp than on the bike, you’ll want to pack very differently.

Here’s my luggage for the Smoke ‘n’ Fire:

P1150752

 

Sleep Kit

This is one department where opinions are as varied as the riders espousing them.  Some will sleep very little or plan to use lodging along the route, carrying only the bare minimum for survival if forced to camp.  Others will carry a full-size tent, air mattress and perhaps even a camp chair.  Others prefer a hammock rather than sleeping on the ground.  In wet climates a synthetic-fill bag may outperform down which loses its loft when wet.  As outdoor gear gets lighter and more packable, there are lots of good options for bikepacking-friendly gear in this department if you have the coin to spend.  My low-budget approach forces some compromise and I carry more weight and bulk in sleep kit than I would prefer but I know I’ll stay dry and warm in anything but full-on winter conditions.

P1150755

  • Therma-Rest Prolite 3 Sleeping Pad, Small
  • Sierra Designs Zissou 23° Sleeping Bag, 700-fill “Dri-Down”
  • Black Diamond (Bibler) Bipod Bivy w/single pole and 4 stakes

 

Tools, Spares, First Aid 

One of the great joys of traveling by bike is its efficiency.  On a bicycle you have ability to cover an immense amount of distance each day, even over terrain that would stop a four-wheel-drive truck in its tracks.  However, one mechanical issue at the wrong time will turn your amazing machine into a glorified luggage cart.  If you don’t like the idea of pushing or dragging your bike for miles on end it is critical to carry the tools needed to fix common mechanicals and know how to use them.  Most modern bikes require only a handful of hex wrenches to perform the majority of adjustments or repairs you’d need to make on the road.  Don’t go off the deep end preparing for every potential catastrophe and weigh yourself down with several pounds of hardened steel that you’ll never use.  If you maintain and service your bike before your trip, you shouldn’t have to perform major repairs in the field.  There also comes a point where you have to place your trust in your equipment and hope for the best.  Your tool needs will vary depending on your bike and route but my tool roll holds pretty much the same kit I would take on a long day ride with the addition of a few “just in case” items.

My first-aid kit looks small by comparison but I tend to ride very carefully on trips like this and rarely suffer much more than the odd abrasion.  The Smoke ‘n’ Fire route is never too far from major roads or outposts of civilization, so I’ll rely on outside medical aid in case of anything more severe.

I plan to use my GPS unit and cue sheet for primary navigation but always like to have good old paper maps as a backup.  I don’t like to place too much trust in electronics.

P1150759

  • Idaho Hot Springs MTB Route Map (shows 90% of Smoke ‘n’ Fire route)
  • Relevant photocopied map pages from Benchmark’s Idaho Road and Recreation Atlas
  • Compass
  • Leatherman Wingman multi-plier
  • Bakoda Cable Lock (for a little peace of mind when making resupply stops)
  • First Aid Kit w/ alcohol swabs, misc. bandages, anti-chafe cream, moleskin patches, waterproof matches.
  • DIY Tool Roll with 6, 5, 4, 3, 2mm hex wrenches, vulcanizing patches and glue, 9 and 10-spd quick-links, tire lever, DIY multitool with chain tool, 8, 9, 10mm open wrenches and bottle opener, chain lube, duct tape, spare Crank Bros cleat, misc. spare hardware, spoke wrench, tube, rag.
  • DIY leather “Junk Straps”
  • Not Pictured: Topeak Road Master Blaster frame pump (on bike)

 

Electronics

The escape from our screen-filled, flickering electronic world of ones and zeros is an appealing feature of these kinds of rides.  They allow you an opportunity to get back to a more immediate, unplugged, unfiltered, simplified existence.  This is why I carry a minimum of electronic distractions.  I brought an iPod on the Oregon Outback thinking I might need the music for extra motivation but never used it.  I’m constantly shocked and amazed by the desire people have to carry all the mess and noise of the modern world with them into the backcountry.  However, I do appreciate GPS technology for simple route-following and ride tracking, love my digital camera and struggle to imagine a world before high-powered LED lighting.  The lynchpin of this setup is the dynamo hub on my bike which powers my main headlight and a USB charger that allows me to recharge most of my devices on the go.

P1150765

  • Cygolite Expilion 700 USB-rechargable headlamp w/helmet mount
  • Garmin Edge 500
  • Gomadic Charging Cable (specific to Edge 500, also charges the Cygolite)
  • SPOT Tracker
  • Cell Phone & Charging Cable
  • Digital Voice Recorder (easier than a paper journal for ride notes)
  • Spare Battery for Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS2 (Camera not pictured. Guess why.)
  • On Bike, Not Pictured: Supernova E3 Pro Headlamp and Sinewave Cycles Reactor USB Charger, powered by Shimano DH-3N80 generator hub. Portland Design Works Radbot Taillight

 

Clothing

Similar to tools and spares, this is another department where it is easy to overpack in a vain attempt to be prepared for anything.  In my estimation, if there isn’t a time where I’m wearing nearly every article of clothing I packed, I brought too much.  I’ve fallen in love with wool shirts as opposed to the wicking synthetics typically used in technical clothing.  They seem to hold just enough sweat or water next to my skin to allow it to cool me off when hot and never feel chilly or clammy when cold.  For a trip like this where I don’t plan to spend much time in towns or in camp I don’t bring changes of clothes.  I’ll be stinking to high heaven after a few days but bringing extra clothes just for the luxury of feeling a little more “civilized” isn’t worth it to me.  However, with early morning temperatures expected to be below freezing in the high places I want to give myself the best chance of staying warm.

P1150768

  • Smith Pivlock v90 sunglasses, platinum lens
  • Wool cycling cap w/earflaps
  • Generic cotton cycling cap
  • Lazer Genesis helmet
  • Sierra Designs Gnar Lite down jacket
  • Pearl Izumi cut-off half-finger gloves
  • Seirus softshell long-finger gloves
  • Dickies cut-off shorts
  • Icebreaker wool long-sleeve
  • Icebreaker wool short-sleeve
  • Wool socks, thin
  • Wool socks, thick
  • Leg Warmers
  • Synthetic (quick drying) underwear for hot spring or river dips
  • Icebreaker wool underwear
  • Rapha bibshorts
  • Specialized Pro MTB shoes
  • Cheap flip-flops
  • Not Pictured: Giro Insulated Vest

 

Hygiene and Hydration

I tend to keep things pretty simple here as well, especially for short trips like this.  I find some kind of electrolyte supplement to be a big help for warding off cramps.  I also get tired of plain water and like having one bottle of water and one of some kind of drink mix on the bike at all times, mixing up the flavors for some variety.  It’s easy to get sick of a particular taste when you’re sucking it down hour after hour, day after day.

For a trip this short, I’ll make do with quick stream baths to get the worst of dust and dirt off but would never go without my toothbrush!  However, I will use alcohol wipes in my first-aid kit to keep my backside clean.  The last thing I want to deal with is an infected saddle sore.

P1150769

  • Sunscreen
  • Hardshell sunglass case for glasses and toiletries
  • Spare contact lenses
  • Lens Case
  • Contact Solution
  • Glasses
  • Toothbrush
  • Toothpaste
  • Chamois cream
  • Skratch Labs drink mixes
  • Nuun electrolyte tablets
  • Hammer Fizz electrolyte tablets
  • Sawyer Squeeze water filter and bag
  • Water Bottles, two 22 oz., one 26 oz.

 

Cooking and Nutrition

This is one area that I tend to overprepare in.  In an ideal world, I would carry just enough food to get me to my next resupply location without going hungry.  In the real world, I’d always rather have a little extra.  I also never know what I might find at unfamiliar stores so I prefer to carry a larger supply of food that I know packs well and keeps my fire fueled rather than making do with whatever I can get my hands on.   Also, this prevents me from being at the mercy of small country markets that often have irregular and unpredictable business hours.  There is comfort in the knowledge that if shit hits the fan I won’t be going hungry.

For rides like the Smoke ‘n’ Fire, some light-and-fast purists will leave the cookset at home.  For me, the comforting, morale-boosting ritual of preparing and enjoying a warm meal or hot beverage is well worth the extra gear and preparation time.  I prefer to cook simple dehydrated meals where I can just boil a small pot of water and add food.  This allows me to carry my simple, compact and lightweight alcohol stove.  There are lots of dehydrated food options at grocery stores with well-stocked bulk departments in addition to the freeze-dried meals available at outdoor stores.  Typically, I’ll carry oatmeal with dried fruit, granola or trail mix for breakfast and some kind of soup or bean mix for dinner.  I’ll supplement these bases with whatever I pick up along the way.  Jerky, smoked fish, tuna packets, summer sausage and cheese are favorites for quick protein and require no additional cooking.  I’ll also try to pick up fresh fruit where possible and eat it immediately since it doesn’t pack well.  When time and funding allows, a break for a hot meal in town is always a morale booster and gives me a chance to take on extra calories that I don’t have to carry.

On the bike, I’ll eat just about anything.  I like prepackaged food bars for ease of carrying/consumption, calorie density and variety of flavors/nutrients.  ProBars are among my favorites and I rarely get tired of them.  I’m excited to try out Revelate’s handlebar-mounted feedbag on this trip as it will allow me to have a bag of trail mix or other snacks easily accessible for one-hand munching.  In the past, I’ve finished trips with huge quantities of trail mix left over because it is so difficult to eat while riding and I’m typically eating my breakfast or dinner if I’m in camp.

For many of us, a hot cup of coffee in the morning is not a luxury but a necessity.  However, coffee beans and the apparatus needed to prepare them can be difficult to justify carrying and create additional waste that must be dealt with in a responsible way.  Fortunately, Starbuck’s VIA or Mount Hagen instant coffee packets are a workable substitute.  I’d much rather drink VIA than actual Starbuck’s coffee; at least it isn’t burned yet.  I also enjoy a warm cup of caffeine-free tea in the evenings while taking in the stars.  Lemon ginger tea with a splash of whiskey is a pretty delightful nightcap!

P1150777

 

  • Enameled Cup
  • Pot Gripper
  • MSR 1-liter stainless steel pot w/lid
  • 1 cup Refried Bean mix
  • 3 cups Lentil Soup mix
  • 4 cups Oatmeal w/dried mixed fruit
  • 2 Thai Noodle Soup packets
  • Trail Mix
  • Sesame Cheddar Sticks and Wasabi Peas
  • Fig Bars
  • 12 assorted Energy Bars
  • Handkerchief
  • Bamboo Spoon
  • Pot Scraper
  • DIY Beer Can Alcohol Stove
  • DIY Bicycle Spoke Pot Stand
  • DIY Aluminum Foil Windscreen
  • Denatured Alcohol
  • Lighter
  • Starbuck’s VIA Instant Coffee
  • Assorted caffeine-free Tea Bags

I think that’s everything!  Did I forget anything?  Now for the task of packing it all into my bags and onto the bike!  Packing strategies also vary widely but that’s a topic for another post.  Until then, here’s a photo of the Rando-Gnar all packed up at the start of the Oregon Outback.

P1140035

In my next pre-ride post I’ll get into some of the planning, strategizing and goal-setting I like to do when assessing a route.  Follow the link to read on!

Thanks for reading; I look forward to your comments and feedback!

[Looking for more Smoke ‘n’ Fire content?  Check out Ryan’s post-ride recap here.]

 

Categories
Hermit's Workshop

Simple Bike Maintenance Tips

Some Ideas To Make Your Life Easier
Coat Your Inner Tubes With Talc
Ever had to peel an inner tube out of your tire when changing a flat? Sometimes when a tube has been in a tire for a long time the two almost seem to be welded together. Put your spare tubes in a large plastic bag and sprinkle in a little talcum powder. Shake it up and take the tube out of the bag. The layer of talc will create a slip plane between tube and tire, making mounting easier. Since the tube will be able to slide around a little bit the chance of a fold or wrinkle is reduced and the tire will run more true and with less rolling resistance. I have been using baby powder, but a review of the ingredients shows me it is mostly corn starch so I guess that could work as well. We now carry Rema Tip Top brand tire talc too.

Check Chain Wear
Bicycle chains don’t “stretch”. The links and the pins connecting them wear so that the “Pitch” or the distance between the pins increases. When this happens the chain will then start wearing away at the metal in the cogs and chain rings to match the new chain pitch. In extreme cases a new chain will not mesh with the old rings and the rear cog and the chain rings need to be replaced. Chains are relatively inexpensive so I usually err on the side of caution and replace mine at the first sign of wear. A new chain measures precisely one half inch between pins. 24 links should measure 12 inches edge of pin to edge of pin and can be measured with the chain on the bike. An even better way is to remove the chain and lay it flat and in a straight line and measure the pins which are 24 inches apart. If there is even 1/16 inch of “stretch” in 24 inches it’s time to replace the chain.

How to tell if the chain rings and or cassette cogs are worn? It the individual cogs/teeth have a “shark fin” shape and/or if the leading or pulling edge is deformed with a small ridge, it can affect shifting performance.

picture of chain ring wear
There is a small ridge developing on the leading edge of this ring.
picture of chain ring
Close-up of the deformed tooth.
Categories
Bike Touring Tips Hermit's Workshop

Bike Hermit on YouTube

I watch YouTube videos sometimes. I admit it. Actually, I watch them more than sometimes…it’s sort of like crack cocaine to me. And I watch everything. From comedians whose entire body of work seems to exist only on YouTube, to old episodes of Iron Chef (the original, Japanese version of course) to videos about gangsters and prison, to entire Yes concerts. My current favorite however is Jeff Bradshaw’s “Redneck Restoration“. This guy can literally find an old motor that has been sitting in a field (without the vehicle) for the last 15 years and make it run. His videos are rough and primitive. He puts the camera on a tripod and films himself as he cracks the cover off the differential of a 1958 1 ton truck. Then he carries the camera into the auto parts store and records his banter with the employees. Looks simple.

I’m more interested in search engines than auto engines though and all the gurus say that YouTube videos (YouTube is owned by Google) can help a website rank highly in searches. No problem thinks I; “If Jeff Bradshaw can do it, then I can too” So I figure I would record myself putting together the Surly Ogre/Rohloff build then under way. After an hour or so of setting up the camera and lights I’m ready to boggle the minds of the brethren with my mad video skills. I would time lapse the repetitive, dull operations and then slow the video back down to normal speed to highlight some particularly difficult step and to impart my sardonic and incredibly useful revelations.

Guess what? It’s way more difficult than it looks. My video was pretty much unusable. The lighting was bad and the bike blocked the view of whatever I happened to be working on. I even attempted to use two cameras, but that didn’t simply double the exposure of my ineptitude …it became more of an exponential display of incompetence. In fact, after “recording” for some time, I discovered the battery in one of the cameras was dead. And I didn’t even get far enough along to worry about the editing.

Since then we have been lucky to find a young fellow (the Bike Hermit has several pairs of shoes older than he is) to film, edit and post videos for us. Our YouTube channel is called “Bike Touring with Bike Hermit” and we have instructional videos along with product overviews and product un-boxing videos. So please check it out. Leave comments and let us know what sort of things you would like to see covered. Here’s a sample:

Categories
Hermit's Workshop

Tool Kits For Bike Touring

Dear Bike Hermit,
You’re the coolest and this blog is the best. I want to be just like you so I want to get a super-cool King Cage Behold Tool Pouch. But I want to know what you carry in yours.
Thanks, and keep up the good work

Les in Tuscaloosa

Les in Tuscaloosa,
There are many people cooler than I am, and there are probably better blogs but thanks for your comments. I agree that the King Cage Behold Tool Pouch is super-cool, in fact I think it is one of the best ideas I have seen in a long time. In case you missed it I did this blog post about it a while back. But now that you mention it I realize I never talked about what can be carried in it. So here’s a list of what I carry in mine:
-A chain tool
-A cassette lock ring tool
-A spoke wrench
-A few links of chain and a quick connect coupler
-Spare bolts for seat post, racks and shoe cleats
-Spare bulbs and parts for my bike headlamps

Nothing I carry in the tool pouch will ever need to be accessed in a hurry, in fact those parts and tools may never need to be used at all, but if I ever need them they could be life savers. I did a blog post about the cassette lock ring tool that you might want to look at. If you don’t know what the other tools are for or how to use them… Google it, that’s what YouTube’s for brah. I read about a lot of people who go for extended tours and write proudly of barely knowing how to fix a flat tire. Don’t be that guy. Take your bike apart and put it back together. At least loosen the brake cables and the brake shoes and try to get them adjusted again. Do the same thing with the shift cables. Take a class at REI. Take the tires off the rims and put them back on. You can thank me later.

Oh, and carry the things you most likely will need at some point, such as spare tubes, tire levers, a multi-tool that has 4, 5 and 6mm hex wrenches and both kinds of screwdrivers, and a y-shaped socket wrench with 8, 9 and 10 mm sockets on it in an outer pocket of one of your bags where you can get to them quickly.

To make it easier for you there are now a couple of new package options on the Bike Touring News store. One option (Tool Kit #1) is for the tool pouch with all the tools I carry in mine…. minus the spare bolts and light bits and chain pieces. You’re on your own for those. The other option (Tool Kit #2) is to buy the whole caboodle which includes Tool Kit #1 plus the y-shaped socket tool, a multi tool with hex wrenches and screwdrivers, and a set of tire levers.

Hope this answers your question Les and remember the 7 P’s; Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

Best Regards,
Bike Hermit

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Hermit's Workshop

Carrying Spare Spokes

In bike touring, as in life, one needs to plan for the worst and hope for the best. The middle of nowhere is nowhere to be with a broken spoke without a little bit of know how and prior planning. Breaking a spoke is one of those rare occurrences but it does happen and the bicycle tourist needs to carry extra spokes in the proper lengths, a spoke wrench, and a tool to remove the rear cassette. A search on the internet brings up many instructional videos on how do do the deed, so I’m not going to duplicate those here.
It might be a good idea to carry a FiberFix spoke replacement as a stop gap until the next bike shop too.

What I do want to share is this idea for carrying spare spokes. I don’t claim to be the first one to think of this, in fact I normally tape some spokes to my left chainstay, but I decided that looks too ghetto. A two or three inch long piece of foam whittled into a cylindrical shape a little larger than the inside diameter of the seatpost can be pierced lengthwise with three or four spokes and then stuffed inside the seatpost.

spokes piercing a piece of foam
Penetrate the foam. Then thread a nipple on the end.

Foam inserted into seat post, with spokes
The foam should fit tightly enough that it won't bounce out

The spokes are relatively easy to access (just remember to mark the seatpost before removing it so the saddle height will be the same when reinstalled.) Some tourists stuff spokes into the ends of the handlebars but I don’t like the idea of the spokes being bent like that, and it wouldn’t be that handy on a bike with bar end shifters.
So there you have it. One step closer to being self-sufficient on the road.

Categories
Hermit's Workshop

Rust Prevention For The Steel Bicycle Frame

can of frame saver

bottle of Boeshield lube
Get the aerosal can instead if you want to spray it in the frame. Makes a good chain lube too!

Steel can rust. More in some climates than in others. And rust will form when water, or water vapor, and air are both present and available. What does that mean for a steel bicycle frame? I have two steel frames, one is 40 years old and the other is 18 years old. Both have been ridden hard and put away wet, although for the last several years neither one has been assembled with parts and so there is no chance for moisture to mix with air and rust them out. (Not here in the high desert of Idaho anyway) Neither frame shows signs of rust on the inside of the tubes. Well, maybe a little bit on the older frame, but nothing worrisome.

There are a couple of precautions that can be taken to protect a steel bicycle from rust:
TAKE THE BIKE APART ONCE IN A WHILE! At least take the seatpost out and preferably the bottom bracket too. Let the bike sit inside long enough for any residual moisture to evaporate. Lube everything and put it back together. This is especially important for aluminum seatposts since the aluminum in contact with the steel WILL corrode, potentially requiring that the post be cut out of the frame seat tube. Don’t ask how I know this.

Use JP Weigle Frame Saver or Boeshield T-9 inside the tubes. Both products are delivered via solvents which evaporate and leave a sticky, protective film on exposed steel. Best to apply either one to a completely bare disassembled frame, since they are messy and you want the coating to be thorough, which means it will be dripping out of every orifice. Follow the instructions and precautions and make sure to use enough to completely coat the inner surfaces, but not too much. Be sure to allow enough time for the drying/evaporating process. The Boeshield T-9 makes a good chain lubricant as well.

Don’t let the fear of rust scare you away from a steel frame. In most cases, and with a little care, it will not be an issue.

Categories
Hermit's Workshop

An Important Tool When You Need It

Somewhere I’ve heard the sentiment that youth might be wasted on the young. Sometimes I wonder if that doesn’t apply to pure dumb luck as well. When I was a good deal younger than I am now I was touring in New England. Just outside of a small Vermont town, as I started up a longish grade, and as the sun was starting its descent, I heard the telltale snap of a spoke in the rear wheel breaking. Then a moment later, because of the added stress on the remaining spokes, a second one snapped. My wheel was distorted but not too much to prevent me from wobbling back into town.

Here’s where the luck came in. There was actually a bike shop in this little town and they had a couple spokes in the right length. For whatever reason (I seem to remember it was closing time) I didn’t have them replace the spokes for me. Instead I walked across the street to a service station (told you it was a long time ago) borrowed a hammer and a screwdriver and sat on the concrete floor in an empty bay.

This was before the days of cassettes and I had a 5 speed freewheel on my Peugeot PA10, but I had no way to unscrew it from the hub. So I used the hammer and screwdriver to take off the top race in order to take the freewheel apart to access the spoke heads in the hub. I still can’t believe I was able to do it and get the spokes replaced and the freewheel reassembled without losing any of the 36 little ball bearings or the springs or pawls inside the freewheel.

Nowadays on most bikes the freewheeling part, or cassette body will be part of the wheel’s hub and the cassette, or group of cogs, will slide over the cassette body and be held in place with a lock ring.

cassette next to cassette body
The cassette body is attached to the hub. The cassette cogs are slotted on their inner suface and these slots mate with the ridges on the cassette body
shows cassette lock ring on top of cassette
The cassette cogs are held down with this lock ring which screws into the cassette body.

You can see that if a spoke breaks on the cassette side of the wheel, the cassette needs to come off in order to get the broken end out and the new spoke in (did I mention I now carry spare spokes when touring? Here’s a way to do it).
Normally this requires a special tool with splines to match the lock ring, a big honkin’ wrench to turn the tool and another big wrench called a chain whip to keep the cassette cogs/body from turning. The Unior 1669 cassette lock ring tool weighs just a few ounces and can loosen the lockring and tighten it again with minimum fuss and save your bacon.

Unior 1669 cassettte lock ring tool
The Unior 1669 cassette lockring tool, all folded up.
Unior 1669 cassette lockring tool
The tool incorporates a spoke wrench. The little plastic plate is held between the tool and the bike frame to protect the paint.

Using this little beauty to loosen a cassette lockring is not exactly intuitive. The first step is to remove the wheel and the nut on the quick release skewer. Then the tool can be slipped into place with the teeth of the tool meshing with the lockring teeth. Now the outside of the tool is flush with the end of the hub axle cones or adapters and the wheel can be put back on the bike and the skewer tightened to hold it in place. The tangs on the tool need to be pointing down in order to slip in between the derailleur hanger and the chain stay.

The cassette lockring tool in place
The cassette lockring tool in place. Note how it is flush with the hub axle adapters. Now the quick release skewer can be put back in and the wheel re-mounted on the bike.
cassette lock ring tool in place
The tool is in place, the wheel is secured and the plastic, paint protector plate is ready.

Now, giving a mighty effort with both hands on the crankset, the lockring can be loosened. When re-installing, the rear wheel is manually turned backwards while holding the plastic plate on the opposite side to protect the paint on the chainstay. Brilliant, really.