Category: Lights and Electronics

Almost everybody- or more precisely; everybody- I have spoken to about it thinks the Busch+Müller Luxos U head light is klunky and ugly. I’m not the one to give an opinion on headlight aesthetics though since I still use the Schmidt E6 light on my commuter bike. But I can say that the Luxos U is heavy, and mounting it anyplace but on the fork crown using the provided fork crown mounting bracket is a bit of a challenge. If it’s not tightened securely it has a tendency to slowly droop so that the lighted patch on the road ahead becomes shorter and shorter. I recently upgraded to this light on my touring machine and went through a couple of iterations before I came up with what I think will be a permanent mounting solution.

I have caliper side pull brakes on my bike and I also use a front bag mounted on top of a Nitto M-18 rack, and either one of those conditions, by itself, would preclude mounting the light on the fork crown. (Note: we do have mounts that will attach behind a caliper brake, but they are not recommended for this light) What to do? Nitto makes a light mount which consists of an eyebolt which slips over the end of one of the M-18 rack stays and a clever little scalloped washer which clamps down on the stay for a really solid attachment. There were two problems with using the actual light mounting bracket that the Nitto lamp holder uses though: 1)  The Luxos U is too big to be mounted on the bracket without either being too far outboard or being pushed out of whack by the rack stay. 2) Where the light is meant to mount, the bracket is a single thickness of metal, rather that a U or a fork shape. Simply bolting the light to a flat peice of metal doesn’t seem to be a strong enough connection to keep the light from slipping.

I had the idea to thread the 6mm end of a Sheldon Fender Nut onto the bolt of the Nitto Lamp Mount in place of the stock bracket and then bolt the light onto the 5mm end of the nut. While this was a clean and sort of elegant solution, I couldn’t clamp the bolt tight enough to keep the light from drooping, and when the light rotated down it also tended to loosen the clamping bolt, so eventually the whole thing was just sort of dangling there, with the light pointing straight down at the ground.

I wish I could take credit for the next idea, but it actually was presented by a friend of mine. The Gino Light Mount is designed to be bolted onto a threaded hole somewhere on the bike’s fork or onto a threaded mount brazed onto a rack. It is a short (22mm) cylinder with a diameter of 26mm, which is the diameter of a standard road handlebar. Any light with a handlebar mount can then be mounted on the Gino mount. Drilling the mounting hole of the Gino Light Mount out a little bit and then using a tap to create some threads, I was able to screw it onto the bolt of the Nitto Lamp Holder in place of the stock bracket. Now I had a place to mount the light which I could position anywhere along the length of the rack stay. I just needed a mount designed for a  handlebar which would work with the Luxos U. As it turns out, the German company Schmidt makes just the thing. The way the metal band of the Schmidt mount is cinched onto the handlebar, or Gino Light Mount in this case, makes it virtually impossible for it to slip. And the fork in the bracket sandwiches the mounting tab on the light and a through bolt clamps the whole thing together.

So far this has been a rock solid mounting solution and the light is in a good position to light the road with only minimal shadow from the front tire. The downside is that it took parts of three different mounts to cobble it together. Getting the light in the right position and aligned the way I wanted it was pretty fiddly too. You might be wondering if it all was worth the effort. The Luxos U light basically incorporates every technology known to one of the best dynamo light manufacturers in the world. It is not simple and it is not inexpensive. Another post could and should be devoted to the features, advantages and benefits of this light. I just haven’t spent enough time with this light to even do it justice in a review. Giving it a thorough testing, which will require planning some more rides in darkness, is something I look forward to.

Lately we have been selling and installing more dynamo powered headlights and tail lights from Busch & Muller and Schmidt as well as a few from Supernova. This post will cover some mounting options and some tail light wiring details.

We have the Nitto Lamp Holder for Nitto M-18 and M-1 racks. There is a left and a right side version depending, obviously, on which side you want to mount the light. I set up the left side mount on my bike and bolted on a couple of lights to see how it works. The mount can be bolted on anywhere along the stay but I think I would put it at the highest point that will still keep the top of the light below the rack platform. The bracket can also be clamped either on the outside of the stay or on the inside depending on the light being used.

In the two above photos above can be seen the tail light wire, the ground leg terminated with a Schmidt ground connector which is sandwiched between the light body and the mounting bracket when the mounting bolt is run through. The other end is terminated with a 2.8mm connector and plugged into the mating connector in the base of the light. The Schmidt headlights use this configuration but the Busch & Muller lights have connections for two 2.8 mm fittings so one doesn’t have to mess with a separate ground connection when using a wired tail light. The hard-wired wire in the base of the light goes to the dynamo hub. All wired tail lights are wired into and operated by the headlight, not the hub.
Here I am making up the connectors for the tail light wire;

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I finally got tired of having a battery tail light because it was just too undependable, partly because I often forgot to switch it off and the batteries died. I mounted the Busch & Muller Secula Plus fender mount light and it has been fantastic. There is no switch, the light is on whenever the headlight is on. And there is a built in capacitor so when I stop at an intersection the light stays lit for a few minutes. Simple, idiotproof, reliable and super bright!

DISCLAIMERS

-The Bike Hermit started this post and turned it over to Ryan to do the un-boxing and comparisons of the lights reviewed here. During the final edit it became apparent that the Bike Hermit’s contribution was somewhat incoherent and truculent. That part was removed in favor of Ryan’s more measured and lucid approach. The Bike Hermit did complete the last part- “Road Test”

-We are not giving advice here on how to light your bike and/or yourself. Each rider should take the responsibility of knowing local laws pertaining to bicycle safety and for using common sense.

–In Germany, bicycles are legally considered to be part of traffic, and so the laws (Straßenverkehrszulassungsordnung, abbreviated StVZO) are very specific. In fact all bikes over 11 KG are required to be fitted with dynamo powered lights. Even lighter, “racing” bikes are required to have lights but these can be battery powered. And every bike light sold in Germany must have an approval from the department of transportation. Blinking headlights or taillights are not legal. (need to get me a lobbyist)

-Boise City Code Section 10-14-03 says:
When in use at nighttime, a red reflector on the rear visible from a distance of three hundred feet (300′) when directly in front of lawful upper beams of a motor vehicle, and a forward-facing white light attached either to the bicycle or the bicyclist which is visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet (500′) in front of the bicycle. A bicycle shall be equipped with a frontfacing
white or yellow reflector when the bicyclist uses a generator powered light which is unlit when the bicycle is stopped.

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B&M Battery-Powered Headlight Comparision

We talk a lot about dynamo-powered headlights around here, and for good reason because there is a lot to like about them.  However, dynamo-powered systems have their drawbacks.  First, the light is wedded to the bike it is installed on and doesn’t easily switch over to another bike.  Also, while some dynamo-powered headlights are quite inexpensive the entire kit can cost a good deal when the hub, wheel build, installation, etc are factored in.  Depending on the hub and light used, the resistance can be noticeable.  Exposed wiring often lends an untidy appearance on an otherwise sleek and elegant machine.  Dynamo hubs can also add a significant chunk of weight.

Even with the excellent dynamo-powered lights available today, there is still need for a well designed battery-powered light that solves all of the above problems associated with dynamo lighting while still providing useful lighting.  However, most of the lights widely available in bike shops across the US fall into one of two categories: “to-be-seen lights” with limited ability to illuminate the terrain and high-output, flood-style lights designed to turn a pitch-black singletrack into broad daylight.  For most on-road riding, neither is ideal.  A middle ground must be sought.

The main problem with either style of garden-variety LED lights commonly used by US riders is that the beam is typically round and uncontrolled, spilling out wildly in all directions.  With a light of the dim, “to-be-seen” style the rider is the only one at a disadvantage.  Even fairly low-powered LEDs are bright enough to be seen at a great distance by other road users.  What these lights don’t do is illuminate the road ahead of their rider.  On back roads, streets or paths without lighting, this can produce anxious moments.  Potholes, cracks, road debris and other obstacles are invisible until it is too late.

On the flipside, with some of the more powerful lights designed for off-road riding the beam can be absolutely blinding for anyone facing the rider.  This is not only a problem for oncoming traffic but also dangerous for the rider who is rendered nearly invisible by their blinding light!  On a more technical note, we must also ask what good is all that power when half of the light’s beam aims above the horizon line?  Many consumers equate a large light output number with a quality light but all the photons in the world are useless if they are not aimed purposefully.

Enter busch+müller with their battery-powered LED lights modeled after their excellent dynamo systems.  These are actual bicycle headlights, not merely “flashlights with a handlebar mount” as Peter White calls the inferior LED lights described above.  We are currently stocking several of these lights that are ideal for any bicycle where a dynamo system is impractical.   Let’s take a closer look at two of them: the Ixon IQ and Ixon Core.

They look very different on the surface but are remarkably similar in function.  They are priced within a few dollars of one another.  The light output of each lamp is nearly identical, with a claimed maximum output of 50 Lux for the Core and 40 Lux for the IQ.  Both lights also have a lower-output, battery-conserving “efficiency” mode where they emit a 10 Lux beam, which is the minimum standard brightness for bicycle headlights under German law.  The key shared feature that distinguishes these headlights from the lights that most American riders are accustomed to is the top-weighted, manicured beam pattern manifested through B&M’s magnificent mirrors.  We’ll look more closely at the beam patterns shortly.

When compared to wimpy “to-be-seen” lights or the overpowered, uncontrolled glare of the MTB-style floods, either of these German-made lights from Busch & Muller will do an excellent job of not only making a rider visible to other traffic but also allowing them to see the road they’re riding without blinding other users.

Un-Boxing

However, there are some key differences that set them apart that we should explore to help those looking for a high-quality battery-powered headlight decide between these two excellent options.

First, let’s dig into the Ixon IQ.

Here’s what comes in the package: headlight with handlebar mount, wall charger, rechargeable AA batteries, instructions.  A two-prong adaptor for US wall outlets (not pictured) is also included at no additional charge when purchasing from Bike Touring News.  The Ixon IQ is also available without charger or batteries for use with your own AA cells.  B&M’s IQ mirror (used in the Schmidt Edelux, B+M’s own Lumotec IQ Cyo and others) is the key technology in this lamp.  The power system also makes this light unique.  The ability to use standard AA batteries lends a level of versatility if the charger is lost or for riders who are heading off the grid.

The use of AA cells rather than a built-in battery adds a bit of heft and bulk to the light but it doesn’t look too ungainly when mounted.  The handlebar bracket has three adjustable positions to fit 22.2, 25.4/26.0 or 31.8mm handlebar sections and is locked down with a quick-release thumbscrew.  The mount also allows a few degrees of horizontal adjustment for precise centering of the beam.

The batteries are very easy to install.  You simply open the hinged case by pressing a small button on the rear of the light…

…then slide the batteries into their clearly-marked receptacles before swinging the case closed again.  The second set of contacts is built into the lower portion of the hinged housing.  The door closes firmly and securely to complete the circuit and prevent any unwanted movement of the batteries.

With the batteries installed, the Ixon IQ charges through a port in the underside of the light body, circumventing the need to remove the batteries to charge externally.

Okay, now let’s have a look at the Ixon Core.  Though similar in function to the Ixon IQ, the Ixon Core is immediately distinguished by its silver finish, slimmer profile and the use of an integral lithium-ion battery rather than replaceable AA cells.  This is both a blessing and a curse.  The Li-Ion battery is lightweight and cleanly integrated but will operate over a finite number of charge cycles and could be outlived by the rest of the light.  However, I suspect that many users will appreciate the sleeker look of the Core and the ease of USB charging without concern for battery lifespan.

In the package you’ll find the Ixon Core light, adhesive rubber stickers, heavy-duty rubber attachment straps, instructions, USB charging cable with wall adaptor, and two-prong adaptor for US outlets (included at no extra charge when purchasing through Bike Touring News).

The Ixon Core charges via a USB port in the rear of the light, drawing power from a computer, wall adaptor or any other device with USB output.  The light under the button glows blue while charging and switches off once a full charge is attained.

The rubber fixing straps are very tough and can be difficult to stretch around your handlebars but provide a very secure mount when in place.  Like the Ixon IQ, the Core’s mount allows the light to pivot horizontally to allow centering of the beam when the light is mounted off-center from the bicycle’s centerline.

So, now that we’ve taken a good look at the lights themselves lets compare the two beams and their relative merits.  First, here’s the Ixon IQ with its “high and tight” beam pattern.  Note that the beam’s intensity is focused high to illuminate the road far ahead but with a sharp cutoff to avoid blinding oncoming users.  When aimed from handlebar height, this beam provides very even illumination of the road surface.  Very little light spills off the sides or bottom of the illuminated area.

Here’s the Ixon Core for comparison.  The beams are very similar in that they have a brighter top section for far-off illumination and a sharp cut-off at the top of the beam.  However, the Core spills a bit more light around the sides of the main lighting area and especially at the bottom of the beam.  To me, it appears that the extra 10 Lux of claimed output spills out in these areas rather than extending visibility in the center of the beam but we’ll look to the results of some road testing to confirm this.

Here are the two lights presented side-by-side.  The tight, focused beam of the IQ is easily distinguished from the broader, more diffuse output of the Core.  In addition to their different charging and power characteristics, the differing beam patterns will make one light or the other a better fit for different riders.

In my estimation, the IQ’s beam will be better suited to faster riding on terrain without tight corners while the Core will perform best at slower speeds and in tighter terrain.

Road Test

I headed out last night after dark with both lights mounted side by side on the handlebars to compare the beams. After a few minutes, the IQ light turned off and I realized the batteries were dead. This illustrates one of the downsides of battery powered lights; maybe you forget to charge it at work and you don’t have spare batteries so you end up riding the last half of the commute in the dark. There is a low battery indicator LED on the top of the light and, if in high powers mode when the battery starts getting low, the beam automatically switches to low power.

The on/off  buttons have a positive action and require being held down with some force for a second before the light turns off or on. So if the light is stuffed into a bag or a jersey pocket there is little chance of either of these lights being turned on or off accidentally.

Lucky for all, I rolled out of bed before daylight and accomplished the road test in the morning.  Both lights have a similar beam pattern and I was hard pressed to tell if the Ixon Core, which is rated at 50 lux output was any brighter than the 40 lux Ixon IQ.  Both lights create a well defined trapezoidal pattern on the road surface. The narrow end of the trapezoid appears a few feet in front of the tire (when mounted on the handlebars) and the two sides of the trapezoid diverge until the entire beam is the width of a two lane road at perhaps 150-180 feet from the bike. I describe the beam as though it was painted on the road, and that that is the impression I am distinctly left with. Almost no light spills outside of the trapezoidal beam lighting the road, except very close to the bike. The IQ light casts a dim crescent shaped light pattern if front of the front wheel. (which can be seen in the side by side comparison of the beams in the last photo above) The Core light projects a relatively focused beam out each side of the lens 90 degrees to the direction of travel, which makes the rider extremely visible from the sides. My observation is that the Core lights the road in a little more even and uniform way. The IQ light has a little triangular shadow in the near part of the beam and the upper edge of the beam (the wide part of the trapezoid farthest from the bike) is a little fuzzy compared to the Core.

Either one of these lights would meet the needs of most commuting and touring cyclists who don’t use dynamo powered lights. They do a fantastic job of lighting the road surface. They don’t do a good job of lighting the sides of the road next to the rider nor do they illuminate things like overhead tree branches.

Recently we received the BikeCharge Power Pack by Tigra Sport and the BikeCharge Power Converter by Tigra Sport for review. The Power Pack is a storage battery with USB output for charging electronic devices, and a micro USB input. The Power Converter converts the A.C. power from a 6 volt dynamo hub to D.C. so that the hub can be used to charge electronic devices or the Power Pack.

UNBOXING

My first impression of the Power Pack is that it is a nice, compact size, relatively light, and appears to be robustly made. There is a rubber cap to seal the ports on the business end of the battery which is held on by means of o-rings. I like that…simple and durable. There are three other caps included in the package, each of which has a different configuration of openings providing access to the USB out or the micro USB in, or both. I can see the advantages of being able to keep dust and moisture out of the unused ports, I just wish there was a more elegant way to do it, especially since I will lose most of the caps the first day on tour.
The battery snaps into a hard plastic cradle which rotates an a base which in turn mounts to a tube on the bicycle (frame, handlebar or stem) and is held in place by a heavy, rubberized band. The attachment system is very solid and I can’t imagine that it will rattle or that there is any chance of it falling off. It might be nice if the part of the base which is held against the bike tube was padded rather than simply hard plastic.
There is a charge indicator light adjacent to the ports on the end of the battery. A short USB cable is included.
The battery has a capacity of 2600 mAh and will charge a device at 500 mAh at 5 volts.

One end of the BikeCharge Power Converter sprouts a short cable which plugs into the dynamo hub, and the converter itself is attached to the bicycle fork with zip ties. Out of the other end of the converter a second cable emerges and is terminated with a USB port. The converter is light but it is large, much larger than the other converter I am using. The two bare wires at the end of the cable which attaches to the hub are meant to be inserted into the plastic plug on Shimano or Sanyo hubs but for my Schmidt hub it was necessary to crimp two piggyback fittings on the end. Over voltage protection is built into the unit for when the wheel is spinning fast.

IN USE

I have only had the chance to use the Power Converter one time but it appears to work well. With any converter I think it is best to use them to charge a battery which can simultaneously be charging a different device or which can be used to charge the device later. This way, when the bike stops, the charge to the device won’t be interrupted. At USD $29.95 this converter is an inexpensive way to get into charging electronics with a dynamo hub. I wish the output cable with the USB port attached was shorter. At almost five feet, there is a lot of extra cable that needs to be tucked in or zip tied on.

I really like the BikeCharge Power Pack. Like I said, it is small and robust and it charges my Droid phone quickly. The rubber end caps are a little cumbersome and might be rethought in order to use just one cap with some sort of system to keep it tethered to the battery. I will probably eventually lose all the caps. I also like the little bracket to keep the battery attached to the bike so I don’t need to find a pocket on a bag to hold it while charging, and I won’t need to fish around looking for the battery when I need it. At USD $69.95 the price is competitive.

The distributor also has a product called LightCharge Hub which is intriguing to me. This is a smaller converter/charger which features dual modes; in addition to the USB port, a separate leg goes to the bike lights , so with the flip of a switch a person can power their lights or charge a device, eliminating the need for piggyback connectors on the hub and the resulting mess of wires. I may need to get one of those for my own use!

We will be listing these products in the Bike Touring News store even though we may not stock all of them. The distributor has a drop ship program which we will be taking advantage of. I can remember back to just a few years ago when the means for recharging electronics with a dynamo hub were limited, and the ones that were out there were complicated and expensive. The story of everything related to electronics, I suppose. Now, if you have a dynamo hub, there are a number of inexpensive ways to keep the phone and tablet charged even when in the middle of nowhere.