Categories
Baja Divide Our Trips

News from the Bike Hermit and Sky King in Mexico!

As you may already know, the Bike Hermit and Sky King have pedaled into retirement from bike shop life and are currently making their way south along the Baja Divide.  As of this writing, they’ve completed the first five segments of the route and are currently resting up in Vicente Guerrero in preparation for what lies ahead.  Here’s a link to the description of this first stretch of the route on the Baja Divide website.

They have been posting photos to Instagram (@stacy_king_powers and @bikehermit) and updating their Crazy Guy on a Bike journal (http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/Bajadivide).  It sounds like the going has been tougher than expected but that the pace of Mexican life seems to be agreeing with them!  Follow along, put your support and encouragement in the comments and enjoy their adventure vicariously.  Here are a few favorite photos from their journey so far:

We’ll continue to share occasional updates from Bike Touring News’ Owners Emeriti as they continue their adventure, so keep your eye on the blog.  Keep up the good work, have fun and stay safe out there, you two!  In the meantime, we have some updates from BTN Headquarters to share, so stay tuned…

Categories
Bikefishing Bikepacking Idaho Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route Other Our Trips Surly Bikes

Middle Fork Sub24O


A few months back, I came across a small article about a Sub24O ride from Crouch, ID to Boiling Hot Springs. After posting said article to Facebook, I find that I have 3 general types of friends, the kind that will click that little ‘heart button’ and then comment something like “you are so badass, I wish I could do something like this”, well dude you could, and you should. Then there are the people, who you probably haven’t spoken to in years, that will like and share the post and then go do it on their own, with their own bike touring squad. The best kind, however, are the ones that text you later, with genuine interest, and over tacos you start to develop a plan. Many beers and several puns later, a weekend was chosen and the gears were put in motion (pun intended).

The thing is about drinking beer while planning a bike trip, some of the fine details get lost in translation… A bit of advice I’ll share with you, something I’ve learned in my bike touring endeavors, always have a plan B, in fact always have at least a plan B, probably a plan C, and just for good measure, keep plan D tucked away in your back pocket. The weekend I picked for this adventure just so happened to be the first weekend after the start of Boise State’s Fall Semester, and with my touring partner in the middle of earning his MBA, he had to back out at the last minute. I’ve toured alone before, see ‘Crazy girl rides across Oregon’, so I had no qualms about setting out on my own, but when the Bike Hermit and Sky King caught wind of the trip, they felt it necessary to join in on the fun. And so, after a few beers, I left the two of them to pour over maps of the route that I had planned for months, double checking all the details and making sure I hadn’t just made the whole thing up.

The next morning I pulled up to Bike Touring News at 0900, gear spread across the entirety of the garage, Revelate frame bags, Surly junk straps, Hennessy Hammocks, BTN water bottles and various bits of clothing needing to be packed and loaded into the truck. I tried to keep my cool as I stuffed my sleeping gear into my handlebar bag, a Revelate SweetRoll that was fighting back. An hour later, we were heading out, driving in circles so the Bike Hermit could find an ethanol free gas station (Horseshoe Bend does have ethanol free for future reference). As the temps rose into the high 80’s we pulled into Crouch, finding a spot suitable for overnight parking, next to the log cabin that doubles as the town hall. Thankfully the City of Crouch offers free WIFI, thus I was able to get a shot of the fully loaded Karate Monkey off to my many instagram followers (all 50 of them). At noon, I headed up Middle Fork Rd, a few minutes ahead of the Bike Hermit and Sky King.

The first 8 or so miles are rolling pavement flowing past a mixture of old barns, open fields and modern homes perched along the Middle Fork of the Payette River. Once the road hits the boundary of the Boise National Forest, it turns to gravel with both designated and primitive camp spots every few miles. The steady climb takes you past several fishing and/or swimming opportunities, which despite their remote location seem to surge with popularity on weekends. Most of the motorists and ATV users were respectful to the ‘Share The Road’ signage, but without doubt, we did encounter the occasional driver who seemed to give zero shits about the lives of cyclists. I would highly recommend bringing an extra handkerchief to tie up bandit style for this exact reason, protecting yourself from the intermittent dust bowls. The 16 miles of gravel transitions from washboard, to packed dirt, to deep layers, making us thankful for the 3” tires in place on the Surly ECR, Troll and Karate Monkey.

In late August, the Middle Fork runs at just above 100 CFS, making it the perfect time to access the natural hot springs requiring river crossings to access. The low flow also leaves small pockets above sections of rapids where brook trout made futile attempts to hide from the Bike Hermit’s Tenkara Rod. The short distance from Crouch to our destination allowed us for plenty of time to stop and fish with daylight left to set up camp. At mile 16, the road forks, the east taking you along the traditional main route of the Idaho Hot Springs trail, the north taking you up to Boiling Hot Springs, our intended destination. Sky King’s research showed that the designated camp spot at Boiling Springs would cost $16.00, more than the cost of gas to get from Boise to Crouch, leading us to look for a primitive spot along the river. Just below Silver Creek, along a stretch of river where several trout could be seen with the naked eye jumping in the afternoon sunlight, we set up camp for the night. IPA’s supplied by Mother Earth Brewing were cooled in the sub 60 degree water and fly rods were rigged for slaying. As the sun set below the canyon, the fishing slowed and Sky King whipped up a delicious riverside happy hour consisting of crackers, cheese and red peppers. After refueling, the Bike Hermit and I headed north in search of undiscovered trout waters, scurrying down steep embankments to the deep pockets protected by downed trees and large boulders. We fished until dark before drifting off in Hennessy Hammocks to the sound of the river bubbling close by. 

The quiet of the remote location and the lack of sun in the canyon allowed us to sleep in well past 0900 and we took our time packing up in the cool morning air. The Bike Hermit revealed his ninja fast packing skills, training from coffee drinking, jogger pants wearing, sunday breakfast type guy into the Bike Hermit in less than 10 minutes, a real Clark Kent to Superman type moment.
It wasn’t until we had gone a few miles before we realized how much of a steady climb we had undertaken the day before, making it a true Sunday Funday. The extra time allowed us to stopped at Fire Crew Hot Springs, the Bike Hermit fished while Sky King and I explored the warm pools on the west side of the river. We came out of the canyon in the late Sunday afternoon heat, making the last few miles a bit harsh. Thankfully The Dirty Shame serves up a good burger and the squad was once again smiling while reliving tales from the past 24 hours.

Bike Touring News endorses this ride for numerous reasons

  • quick overnighter not far from home with options to go further.
  • road surface is doable – could ride w/ 32 mm tires (mildly rough – washboards, sand and gravel)
  • gradual climbing
  • great shake down trip for new gear, new bike packers, new bikes etc.
  • plenty of water at various campgrounds along the way (or take a filter)
  • hot springs (is on the Adventure Cycling Idaho Hot Springs Route)
  • successful fishing

 

Categories
Bike Touring Equipment Bikepacking Planning Resources

The Best Shelter for Bikepacking: Three Opinions

We get lots of questions about shelter from folks getting started in bikepacking.  What shelter is best?  Can I use the ____ that I already own?  How do I know which shelter to bring on a given trip?  In this post, we’ll offer three perspectives on the best bikepacking shelter and try to answer some of those questions!

While many people already do some kind of camping, many shelters that would be appropriate for car camping or even backpacking are not well-suited for bike travel.  Space and weight are at a premium when traveling by bike, so heavy and bulky shelters are a liability.  In selecting a shelter for bikepacking, there are a few key factors to consider:

  • Sleeping Comfort
  • Protection from the Elements
  • Interior Space & Gear Storage
  • Ease of Site Selection & Setup
  • Packed Size/Weight

Obviously, many of the above factors can change dramatically depending on weather, environment or season.  Plan Ahead and Prepare for the conditions you expect to experience.  Any shelter will offer some level of versatility but some excel only in certain conditions.  Also, every person has their own preferences, likes and dislikes when it comes to shelter.  In this post, we’ll offer perspectives from the Bike Touring News crew on the different shelters we use.  What shelter do you prefer for bikepacking?  What did we miss?  Read through and add to the discussion with a comment below!

The Bike Hermit’s Preference:  The Hammock

Several years ago, I came across some articles about stealth camping – or “hiding in the woods” as some people call iton an obscure site called crazyguyonabike.com. The author’s choice of shelter was a Hennessy Hammock and – for some reason I can no longer remember – the idea of bike touring with a hammock appealed to me.

image of camp hammocks
Not many spots for a tent

The design of my Hennessy Hammock impresses me every time I use it. The hammock is attached to and suspended from a ridge line which also supports the enclosing insect netting. A separate rain fly keeps the sleeper dry and/or out of the wind. Upgrading from the stock rain fly to the Monsoon rain fly creates a space around and under the hammock big enough to park the bicycle out of the rain. Hennessy sells a 4-season SuperShelter system consisting of a second layer of nylon on the bottom of the hammock which creates a sleeve where an insulating pad can be inserted. My experience is that the hammock is very cold to sleep in without the 4 season system.

Worries about sleeping in a “hammock” position and only being able to sleep on ones back are mitigated by the asymmetrical design of the Hennessy; once in the hammock the sleeper can put his feet to one side and his head to the other and the hammock offers a flatter, even if still not completely flat, support. I am not able to sleep face down but I can sleep comfortably on either side.  This is obviously a big plus for side sleepers who struggle for comfort when sleeping on the ground.

People always ask what I do when there are no trees. The rain fly, when staked at one end or tied to a sagebrush, and supported at a higher point by the bike or a tree or a fence post at the other end makes a dandy shelter. If the night is cold the hammock can be used laying on the ground under the rain fly as a sort of cocoon.  In this configuration, the hammock becomes a sort of tent/bivy/hammock hybrid shelter.  The benefit of sleeping suspended is lost and setup can be tricky but this capability extends the range of conditions where a hammock is functional.

image of bike and tarp
The Clickstand bike support as a tent pole!

On the last couple of trips I have been using Hennessy’s SnakeSkins which stay attached to the ridge line and simple slip over the entire hammock and pad and swallow the whole thing up leaving a long, fat, nylon snake that can be stuffed into one half of a pannier. This is a much faster way to set up and take down the hammock.

image of end of hammock
The SnakeSkins fold out of the way on the ridge line when the hammock is in use and just slide down from either end to make a quick stuff sack.

 

image of tarp tent
This was to be a very cold night. The fly was on top of me by morning with the weight of a heavy layer of frost. This is the Monsoon Fly.

Pros:

  • Very comfortable – none of the pressure points associated with sleeping on the ground
  • Warm enough for most conditions when used with the two layer insulation system
  • Can be used on uneven, sloping, rocky or wet terrain
  • Completely weatherproof
  • No condensation
  • Packs relatively small – no tent poles.

Cons:

  • Can’t always be suspended
  • Not necessarily lighter than a good tent
  • Not ideal for relaxing – minimal interior space
  • Not as private as a tent – hard to dress or undress in a hammock
  • Makes some people feel claustrophobic

Sky King’s Preference:  The Tent

While the Bike Hermit and Sky King are both huge fans of the Hennessy Hammock there are situations where a tent is a more practical shelter, especially in desert environs where trees are scarce.  Sleeping on the ground in a hammock is an option, though one without most of the hammock’s benefits.  Comparatively, a good tent offers increased comfort and space at roughly the same weight and pack size as the hammock, when divided among a team of two.

perfect for Desert Bike Packing
Big Agnes Angel Springs UL2 in the Owyhee Canyonlands

For our first couple of “let’s take the tent trips” we used our 3-person Kelty – a great tent. We bought it for backpacking primarily because it was roomy – with two vestibules and two doors – making for easy entry/exit and gear storage. However, it is a bit bulkier than we’d like for bike trips. We bit the bullet and now own a Big Agnes Angel Springs UL2. We gave up the double entrance, meaning someone is getting crawled over for the middle of night nature call. Like most tents, it incorporates a rain fly vestibule, allowing for a place to tuck gear out of the weather.

14495463_265649453829296_3002774429655013193_n

We carry the tent for most of our desert riding, especially in new terrain where we aren’t certain of the tree situation.  Site selection – especially in areas where large trees are few and far between – is relatively easy with a 2-person tent.  The tent’s footprint is relatively small, but very hard or soft ground can present guyline challenges.  On surfaces where stakes won’t hold or can’t penetrate, you’ll have to get creative as most tents must be staked out for a proper pitch.

Weight wise, the combination of tent and sleeping pads is roughly equal to that of two hammocks without pads. We can divide the load between bikes and packed volume equates to about the same as the hammock.  For teams of two who don’t mind sharing space and gear, a tent makes an appealing option.  Solo adventurers may find the packed weight and size burdensome unless they are willing to spend big bucks for high-end, ultra-light models.

Pros:

  • Easy entry and exit.
  • Relatively easy site selection.
  • Vestibule space to keep gear dry.
  • Space to sit up and move around inside, especially nice if bad weather hits.
  • Tent components can be divided between bikes, decreasing each rider’s load.

Cons:

  • Heavier and bulkier on average.
  • Higher cost for lightweight options.
  • Tent poles can be difficult to pack on a bike.
  • Potentially tedious and time-consuming setup and takedown.
  • Condensation can be an issue in certain conditions.

 

Ryan’s Preference:  The Bivy Sack

Bivy is short for “bivouac,” which is a fancy word for making camp.  “Bivouac Bags” or “Bivy Sacks” are essentially waterproof sleeping bag covers and have been used since time immemorial by soldiers, alpinists or anyone else who needs a simple shelter that can be quickly deployed in nearly any site.

Twilight falls on the author’s campsite in the Owyhee desert.

There are a wide variety of bivy sacks on the market intended for a range of purposes.  Ultralight emergency bivvies are intended to help you survive an unplanned night out.  They are generally inexpensive, pack small, weigh next to nothing and offer little in terms of comfort.  Some ultra-minimalist bikepackers use shelters of this type for racing but they’re planning on sleeping 2-4 hours per night, if at all.

The more fully-featured bivvies are designed for alpine climbing or similar pursuits. They typically employ sturdier construction, waterproof/breathable fabrics and may even incorporate some kind of additional structure to increase space and ventilation.  If you’re looking for a full night’s sleep or expect anything other than perfect weather, this is the way to go.

The insect mesh on some full-featured bivvies can be a major plus in buggy locations, such as this creekside camp on the 2014 Oregon Outback.

Even though a full-featured bivy can weigh as much or more than an ultra-light tent, it is significantly less expensive, more durable, simpler to pack and ultimately easy to deploy.  For me, this is the bivy’s main advantage.  Any piece of level ground large enough to lay on can be your campsite and the shelter is ready to use within seconds.  This allows you to spend more time riding and exploring rather than searching for an appropriate site to pitch your tent, hang your hammock or fly your tarp.  No stakes, guylines or trees required!  There is also nothing quite like laying on the earth with no roof over your head and watching for shooting stars on a clear night while you drift off to sleep!

Sleep kit for the 2014 Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400. Simple and reliable.

A good waterproof/breathable fabric is the key to the bivy’s success.  The fabric used in my Black Diamond Bipod Bivy features a fuzzy, nappy surface on the inside, allowing it to absorb moisture and disperse it across a wider area of fabric.  This prevents droplets from forming and speeds moisture transport through the fabric.  I have had some condensation form on the floor panels (made from a different, less breathable material) but never on the upper portion of the bag.  I highly recommend that any bivy you purchase feature similar technology.

Also, consider the volume of your sleeping bag and pad.  You’ll lose the loft and warmth of your sleeping bag by cramming it into an undersized bivy, especially around the foot.  If in doubt, go for a larger size.  This is especially true if you plan to use a thicker, inflatable pad or a winter-weight bag.

A coffin-shaped rain shadow after a wet night on the Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route. Should have packed the tarp!

Even with the best breathable fabrics, it is always best to keep any bivy at least partially unzipped to allow moisture to vent out, especially if you’re going to bed wet or attempting to dry wet gear in the bag overnight.  Therefore, it is wise to bring along a tarp to create additional shelter if you expect wet conditions.  A tarp flown over the bivy allows you to leave the head open to vent moisture and prevent claustrophobia.  Nobody likes sleeping in a waterproof coffin (see photo above).  The tarp will also provide shelter for cooking, changing clothes, packing or other camp chores.  I use a simple 8×10′ silnylon tarp that packs to the size of a softball and weighs around 200g.

Pro:

  • Easy Site Selection
  • Ultra-Fast Setup & Takedown
  • Simple Packing
  • Inexpensive
  • View of the Sky!

Con:

  • Claustrophobic When Zipped
  • Minimal Interior Space
  • Condensation Issues
  • Loss of Loft in Sleeping Bag
  • Not Particularly Light

Conclusions

As we’ve learned, every different shelter has its merits and a set of ideal conditions for use.  You should select your bikepacking shelter taking those merits and conditions into account, along with your personal preferences and budget.  Every bike traveler is different, and so is every journey!  We hope this post has provided some guidance and that you’ll have many comfortable, peaceful nights out on your bikepacking trips!

What did we miss?  What shelter(s) do you use and why?  Let’s keep the discussion going in the comments below!  Thanks for reading!

Categories
Bike Touring Equipment Bikepacking The Touring Bicycle Wheel Touring Bicycles Touring Bike Components

The Best Bikepacking Bike Pt. III: Wheels

The stakes are high when traveling far into the backcountry by bicycle.  The potential success or failure of your trip is (literally) riding on your wheels.  A mechanical malfunction at the wrong time can leave you in a very serious situation.  Like teeth, taxes or electricity, your bicycle wheels are easy to ignore when they aren’t causing problems, but can leave you in a world of pain and trouble when things go bad.  Fortunately, most of these kinds of problems can be prevented by choosing appropriate equipment and ensuring it is well-maintained before heading out for a trip.  This is especially true when talking about wheels.

In this post, we’ll discuss what makes a good bikepacking wheel, how to evaluate your current wheels and some points to consider when shopping for new wheels.  Hopefully we’ll be able to help you enjoy your bikepacking adventures with no wheel-related malfunctions!

Reliable wheels are essential when traveling though rough, remote areas.

In general, we think good bikepacking wheels should be durable and reliable above all else.  Gram-saving components will make precious little difference in the ride of your bike when loaded down with 35 pounds of gear and failures are much more than a minor inconvenience when you’re two days from the nearest town.  Fortunately, most truly trail-worthy mountain bike wheels are built to handle pretty rough treatment and won’t suffer greatly under the added stress applied by a loaded bike.  However, many lower-end wheelsets are not built with long-term durability in mind.

Are your wheels ready for bikepacking?  Many stock wheelsets are not.  Bike manufacturers often cut cost on wheels when spec’ing bikes for middle-of-the-curve riders.  Even many high-end bikes are shipped with inferior wheels that don’t hold up to hard riding.  However, it isn’t always easy to tell a high-quality wheel from a cheap look-alike.  In addition, even top-flight wheels can be a liability if they’re nearing the end of their useful life.

There are a few ways to evaluate your wheels for quality and condition, so let’s get into those:

Consider their Service Record

Assuming you’ve put some hard miles on your wheels, perhaps the simplest measure of quality is their service record on the trail.  So, how have your wheels performed so far?  Have they needed regular re-truing?  Have you broken any spokes?  Do the hubs make any funny noises or need repeated bearing adjustments?  If so, you’d be wise to consider repairing or upgrading your wheels before taking off into the woods.  If they’ve taken some abuse with no ill-effects you’re likely to be in good shape.  If you’re unsure about any of these points, a trusted mechanic can help assess your wheels.

However, just because you haven’t had issues yet doesn’t mean they won’t crop up in the future.  The key here is preventative maintenance.  We’ll talk more about that in a bit.  For now, let’s take a closer look at your wheels and see if we can evaluate them for quality and condition.

Check Those Spokes 

A spoke is a spoke is a spoke, right?  How big of a difference do spokes really make?  Well, imagine if the Golden Gate Bridge was built with suspension cables made from cheap steel to cut cost.  Bicycle wheels and suspension bridges have a lot in common.  Spokes made from poor-quality steel will have a much shorter lifespan and will be prone to breakage.  Quality brands like DT Swiss, Wheelsmith and Sapim mark their spokes, either on the head (DT, Wheelsmith) or just below the j-bend (Sapim).  Cheap spokes will have no mark at all or one of a handful of markings such as a star or uppercase “S” or “N”.  If you’re curious, you can investigate the mark on your spokes using this extra-nerdy Spoke Head Identification website.

Quality spokes from DT Swiss. Their butts are visible if you look closely.

A butted spoke is also a definite indicator of quality.  Butted spokes are tapered in the center and thicker at the ends.  Sometimes the butts will be clearly visible.  If not, you can feel for the taper by grasping the spoke near the nipple with your thumb and forefinger.  Slide your fingers up the spoke and you’ll feel the diameter decrease if your spoke is butted.  A butted spoke distributes stress along that slender center section rather than focusing it at the j-bend or threads, improving durability.  As a happy side effect, they are also lighter.

Regardless of quality, any bent or gouged spokes can cause problems or break prematurely.  Bends typically happen when an object lodges in the wheel as it turns or through impact.  Gouging most often occurs on the drive-side spokes due to the chain shifting over the largest cassette cog.  Cassette removal may be necessary for this inspection.

Inspect Your Rims

Rim failure can be sneaky!

As we discussed in a previous post, single-wall rims are wholly inadequate for bikepacking.  Fortunately, even entry-level mountain bikes typically feature a double-wall rim.  Much like spokes, the quality of a rim can be difficult to assess.  Rim makers such as DT Swiss and Stan’s are at the top of the original equipment game.  WTB and AlexRims are common in the middle of the range.  Fortunately, even many inexpensive rims can hold up to hard riding if kept true and properly tensioned.

Of course, even the best rims will suffer the ill effects of high mileage, hard riding or abuse.  If your rims have any major dents or bends you’d be wise to replace them before a big trip.  Also, check the nipple seat for cracks.  This is a common failure mode on quality wheels that have reached the end of their life.  On a bike with rim brakes, you should also inspect the brake track for excess wear.

Evaluate Your Hubs

Formula hubs are typically affordable and reliable. They’re common on quality stock wheels and hand-built options.

Even inexpensive hubs rarely fail but you’d still be wise to evaluate their condition before heading out.  Is there play in the bearings?  Try to push the wheel side-to-side while clamped in your frame or fork.  Do you feel any knocking or play?  Remove the wheel and turn the axle end by hand.  Do the bearings feel rough when you turn the axles?  Does your freehub make odd noises when coasting or fail to engage when you start pedaling?  If your hubs exhibit any of these signs you’d be wise to service them before hitting the trail.

Steer Clear of “Wheel Systems”

Wheel Systems may look fast and flashy but sacrifice reliability and serviceability.

We have seen a nearly infinite number of departures from the traditionally-spoked design as manufacturers continue to reinvent the bicycle wheel.  Some of these variations may offer a performance benefit for competitive cyclists.  Most simply want to stand out from the crowd and appear unique.  Regardless of the result, they accomplish this at the expense of durability and serviceability.  You may be wise to consider a replacement if your wheels have fewer than 28 spokes, nipples that aren’t square or spokes that aren’t made of stainless steel with a j-bend at the hub.  Fortunately, most bike makers are using more traditional wheels on their mountain bikes these days.

Preventative Maintenance is Key! 

Assuming your wheels pass the test above, you’ll want to make sure they’re in the best possible shape before you head out for your trip.  Wheels that are properly trued and tensioned will be much less likely to go out of true or break spokes.  Hubs that are properly adjusted and lubricated will very rarely fail, even under demanding conditions.  If you’re not a top-flight home mechanic you may want to leave this job to a professional.  A skilled mechanic will also be able to update you on the condition of your wheels and help you make preventative repairs to avoid untimely failures.

Need an Upgrade?  Go Hand Built!  

A front wheel comes together in the Bike Touring News workshop.

If your wheels aren’t up to the task or if you’re just looking for an upgrade you’d be well-advised to go hand built.  Unless finished by a skilled wheel builder, machine-built wheels are often undertensioned and tend to need repeated truing even if they are built with quality components.  A hand built wheel allows you the choice of components specific to your application and the ability to customize to your heart’s content.  A good wheel builder will also build to precise, even spoke tension and take steps to remove the stresses that cause wheels to go out of true, resulting in a very durable, reliable wheel built specifically for your riding style and intended use.  They don’t have to be expensive either.  Our prices for hand built wheelsets typically start around $300 and go up from there depending on options.  We build a large number of bikepacking wheels here at Bike Touring News and would love to talk with you about your dream hoops!

If you’re considering a new wheelset, think about incorporating a dynamo hub into the build.  The benefits of dynamo lighting and charging are massive, even if you don’t expect to do a great deal of riding after dark.  With a dynamo light you’ll never have to worry about charging or replacing batteries or leaving your light behind.  If you’re traveling off the grid and need to charge electronics, there are a also a variety of USB charging options powered by your dynamo.  That front wheel is already turning over; why not put it to work?  We offer a wide range of hubs, lights and chargers for every budget and application but that is a subject for another post!

Hand built and dynamo equipped! These 27.5+ wheels are ready for anything!

It is difficult to understate the value of solid, reliable wheels for bikepacking.  Good wheels are the best upgrade you can possibly make and are worth their weight in gold.  We hope you’re feeling better equipped to evaluate your current wheelset or consider what you may look for in an upgrade.  As always, feel free to drop us a comment to ask a question or share your experience.  Have you ever had a bike trip hijacked by wheel problems?  What qualities do you look for in a good wheel?

Thanks for reading and keep on pedaling!

Categories
Bike Touring Equipment Bike Touring Tips Bikepacking Touring Bicycles Touring Bike Components

The Best Bikepacking Bike is the One you Already Own: Part I

Author’s Note:  This post was updated on Dec. 29, 2016.  It was originally published on Feb. 20, 2015.

As interest in bikepacking and off-road bicycle travel continues to grow, many bike makers are offering machines that claim to be optimized for the task. We should know, as Surly’s line is full of bikes like the ECR, Ogre, Troll and Karate Monkey that are ideal vehicles for pedal-powered exploration. This level of specialization in bicycles can be a good thing but it also leaves many would-be bikepackers on the sidelines because they think they need a whole new bicycle to participate. While a shiny new bike can certainly make things easier and provide good motivation to get out and ride, you may discover that the best bikepacking bike is the one you already own.

With a few simple modifications or additions, any good-quality mountain bike can carry you and your gear into the backcountry. In this series of blog posts, we’ll guide you through the process and detail a few key points to consider when evaluating, upgrading and modifying your bike into a two-wheeled adventure steed that will take you places you never thought you could go.Especially since many key pieces of equipment  (bags, lights, etc.) won’t come with any new bike, modifying the bike you already own can be a much more cost-effective path of entry.

In this post, we’ll take a look at the key qualities that good bikepacking bikes share and see if your bike fits the bill. A comfortable, durable, mechanically-sound bicycle is critical. The consequences of an ill-timed breakdown or failure can be quite serious when venturing far from home, so these are very important considerations. Assuming you own a mountain bike of some kind, wheel that thing in here and let’s have a look.

Evaluating your Bike for Trail-Worthiness

Before heading into the backcountry or sinking lots of money into expensive upgrades, you would be well advised to be sure your bike is up for the task. There is a certain standard of trail-worthiness that not all mountain bikes meet. This is mainly a question of reliability. Off-road riding is hard on equipment and many inexpensive, “entry-level” mountain bikes are built with more casual riding in mind.

7598636072_d5d553779d_z
Two trail-worthy mountain bikes, ripe for a bikepacking conversion. Photo by the author.

So, how do you know if your bike is trail worthy? If you purchased your bike at a bike shop and are already riding it regularly on singletrack with few mechanical issues you’re probably in good shape. If you bought your bike somewhere other than a specialty bicycle retailer your chances aren’t so hot. Bikes sold in many sporting goods and department stores are cheap for a reason and don’t typically hold up well when ridden often, especially off-road.

magna
Department store mountain bikes are not a good option.

However, even many top-quality mountain bikes don’t make great bikepacking bikes. So, let’s dig into some of the nuances that set a potential bikepacking rig apart from the rest. Your bike doesn’t have to meet all of these criteria to work well but you’ll be more likely to enjoy the experience if you have most of these boxes checked.

What Makes a Good Bikepacking Bike?

Comfortable Riding Position

HowardandAlanIHSMTB
Two riders pedaling comfortably on the Idaho Hot Springs MTB Route. Photo by the author.

This is perhaps the most important consideration that we’ll discuss but also the most potentially challenging to get right. When you’re on the bike for hours at a time for days in a row, any potential source of discomfort can lead to frustrating pain or a debilitating injury. Other than employing the help of a skilled bicycle fit professional, the only way to know if you’ll encounter comfort issues is to put in the hours riding your bike. If you’re preparing for bikepacking you’ll want to do plenty of preparatory rides anyway, so listen carefully to your body for signs of problems as you ramp up the miles. A comfortable saddle and handlebar in the proper position are key elements in this equation. We’ll get deeper into fit issues in future posts. Assuming that you have a properly sized frame that you can ride comfortably, let’s take a look at some of the nuts and bolts of your bike.

Front Suspension or None at All

While full-suspension mountain bikes are becoming more common across all categories, they are often less than ideal for bikepacking on anything other than the roughest and most technical of routes. Suspension pivots and shock mounts take up valuable space in the front triangle, making frame bags difficult if not impossible to mount. All those moving parts also require regular maintenance and are often impossible to service in the field. You’d rather not be a hundred miles from the nearest bike shop when your rear shock blows a seal and stops holding air.

A suspension fork takes the edge off the rugged singletrack on the Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route.
A suspension fork takes the edge off the rugged singletrack on the Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route. Photo by the author.

A suspension fork can be valuable if your route includes a good deal of rough terrain but can be overkill for routes consisting mainly of dirt roads or smoother trails. Much like rear suspension, a suspension fork adds weight and complexity, requires regular maintenance and can be a major problem if it fails. While rigid mountain bikes have become a relative rarity the simplicity they offer is appealing. If your bike is already equipped with a rigid fork you may be in luck!

The choice to ride front and/or rear suspension will be dictated by your bike, route, personal preference and budget. If your bike does have suspension, be sure it is in top condition before heading out on a long trip.

Big Wheels, Wide Tires

There are many good reasons that 29ers have taken over the mountain bike market in recent years. The bigger footprint, increased air volume and shallower angle of attack offered by wide 29″ tires deliver excellent traction and improve the bike’s ability to roll easily over larger obstacles. These attributes are especially helpful when the bike is loaded down, less maneuverable and harder to unweight over bumps. However, don’t despair if your bike has 26″ wheels or is one of the newer crop sporting 650b/27.5″ hoops. Wheel size won’t make or break your experience out on the trail but larger wheels certainly offer appealing comfort and performance benefits.

Regardless of wheel size, you can do yourself a big favor by using the widest, highest volume tires your frame can safely accommodate. Wide tires will provide a smoother ride, cushion your bike, load and body from bumps and provide improved traction. We’ll talk more about tires in a future post, so stay tuned for that.

Quality Components

For better or worse, the price of an “entry level” mountain bike is incredibly low these days. This is certainly a good thing for many riders as the cost of getting into cycling is lower than perhaps ever before. However, those “entry level” bikes reach their low price points by cutting corners somewhere. One common place for this cost-trimming is in the bike’s wheels.

Bicycle wheels endure tremendous forces, especially when carrying heavy loads over rough terrain. Low-quality wheels that break spokes, bend axles, dent easily and won’t stay true are a serious liability. You’ll want to be certain that your wheels are built on sturdy, double-wall rims with quality hubs and spokes to avoid problems.  As shown in the cross-section diagrams below, double-wall rims feature a box section design that adds significant strength over the less-expensive single-wall design.

Blunt_35_No_Title_450_449
Double-wall rims – like Velocity’s Blunt 35 – provide much stronger wheels.
(Diagram from Velocity USA)
twin hollow
Single-wall rims are not typically strong and durable enough for trail riding or bikepacking.
(Diagram from Velocity USA)

On the subject of hubs, most newer bikes are equipped with a “freehub” drive system rather than the older “freewheel” style.  Bent or broken axles were common with “freewheel” rear hubs on mountain bikes because of the long section of axle protruding past the drive-side bearing.  If you have a rear wheel using a threaded-on freewheel you’d be wise to consider an upgraded wheelset before loading the bike down. We build a significant number of bikepacking-worthy wheelsets here at Bike Touring News, so we’ll talk more about wheels in an upcoming post.

freewheel-vs-k7
Hub comparison from the late, great Sheldon Brown. sheldonbrown.com

Other than wheels, you don’t really have too much to worry about. Even inexpensive brakes, shifters and drivetrain parts are surprisingly reliable and rarely fail when properly maintained. Higher-end parts will be lighter, more precise, offer performance benefits and are sometimes more durable but are not required. However, it is vital that all of your components are well maintained, not excessively worn and in good working order. It is wise to check and replace (if needed) your chain, cables/hydraulic fluid, brake pads, etc before heading for the hills to avoid problems on the trail.  We have a series of blog posts on roadside repair and maintenance, so brush up there if you need a primer.  Many trip-ending mechanicals are a result of poor maintenance and should be easily avoidable.

Metal Frame

Carbon fiber is everywhere in the bicycle industry. Carbon frames and components are showing up at surprisingly low price points and have (mostly) shaken off their reputation for fragility and premature failure. Modern carbon bikes and parts from reputable manufacturers are of very high quality and have proven reliable in demanding conditions. Many also offer extra protection in the form of tough, durable finishes, rock guards and the like. However, you’d still be wise to take extra care when bikepacking with a carbon frame. The combination of additional weight, frame bag straps, accumulated dirt, abrasion and vibration – in addition to normal hazards such as sharp rocks, severe crashes, etc – can cause serious damage to frame tubes of any kind but the problem can develop faster and have more severe consequences with carbon tubes. A good carbon bike can be a potent off-road weapon – especially for those looking to travel fast and light – but metal bikes will be more worry-free and probably longer-lived.

P1160822
Four riders – all on metal frames – head into the Owyhee Desert. Photo by the author.

On the other hand, steel or aluminum bikes may suffer damage to their finish from the conditions presented by bikepacking but will rarely sustain serious damage to the tubes themselves. Regular cleaning and inspection is still important but is not as serious a concern as with carbon tubes. Though expensive, titanium may be an ideal material for bikepacking bikes due to its exceptional hardness and resistance to scratching or abrasion.

Summary

So, is your bike up for the challenge? You may already have your new bikepacking bike hanging in your garage, waiting to hit the trail! If your ride doesn’t cut the mustard, Bike Touring News offers a range of models from Surly that will do the job admirably without breaking the bank, like the ECR, Troll, Ogre or Long Haul Trucker.  There comes a point where a new bike becomes a simpler, more cost-effective option.  Feel free to give us a call, shoot us an email or stop by the shop if you want to talk about the pros and cons of your current bike!

Throughout this series of posts, we’ll dig deeper into some of the considerations outlined above and a few more in order to help you build the best possible bikepacking setup for your application and budget.  In the next post we’ll explore various methods of carrying the supplies for your ride, so stay tuned for that!  Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter @BikeTouringNews for the most up-to-date news and information.

What questions do you have about setting up a bike you already own for bikepacking?  Sound off in the comments, give us a call or email and I’ll do my best to cover those topics of interest in a future post.  Hey, thanks for reading!

Categories
Bags/Panniers/Racks Bike Touring Equipment Bikepacking Frame Bags Handlebar Bag Saddlebags

Product Gallery: Apidura Bikepacking Gear

All photos by @niclaskrake.

Cyclocross bike kitted up with Apidura bikepacking gear.
Cyclocross bike kitted up with Apidura bikepacking gear, perfect for light and fast rides.

 

Products pictured: Full Frame Pack (Med.), Handlebar Pack (Dry, 14L), Saddle Pack (Compact)
Products pictured: Full Frame Pack (Med.), Handlebar Pack (Dry, 14L), Saddle Pack (Compact)

 

Apidura Bikepacking Kit
The full-frame bag is tailored to fit bikes with more traditional, level top tubes rather than the ultra-compact front triangles on most mountain bikes.  It is available in three sizes to fit a wide range of bikes.

 

dsc_9133
The Frame Pack has a much slimmer profile than similar bags, improving knee clearance and preventing the pack from bulging.  The internally-divided pockets are accessible via three zippers.

 

Sturdy Velcro and Shielded Zippers
The Frame Pack features sturdy velcro attachment points and shielded, non-waterproof zippers which tend to be more reliable than waterproof models.

 

Hidden Hydration Hose Exit Point
The Frame Bag also integrates a hidden hydration hose exit point.  The upper section of the bag (separated by an internal divider) accommodates an average 3L bladder easily.

 

Apidura Saddle Pack
Apidura’s Saddle Pack is a variation on a tried-and-true design with thoughtful details that set it apart.

 

Quality Hardware and Thoughtful Detailing
Quality hardware and reflective details on the Saddle Pack.

 

The Saddle Pack incorporates a series of taillight attachment loops. One should be accessible no matter how far the bag is rolled.
The Saddle Pack incorporates a series of taillight attachment loops. One should be accessible no matter how far the bag is rolled.

 

Rolling Closure and Shock Cord
Shock Cord is included on the top of the Saddle Pack to secure extra layers or other gear.

 

Waterproof Handlebar Pack
The Waterproof Handlebar Pack incorporates a cleverly-hidden valve for purging of excess air inside the bag.  Shock cord and attachment points for optional accessories add to its versatility.  It is offered in a range of sizes to fit any cockpit.

 

Sunset in the Boise Foothills
Apidura bikepacking gear is perfect for light and fast adventures on a wide variety of terrain and bicycles – especially those with more horizontal top tubes.  These products fill an important void and expand the utility of bikes that may not have been considered appropriate for touring in the past.  So, load up and hit the road!

 

Categories
Bikepacking Planning Resources Saddlebags Touring Bike Accessories

6 Tips for Successful #BikeFishing!

Except on the most rugged of trails or in Wilderness areas where mechanized transport is not allowed, a bicycle is the ideal vehicle to transport you and your gear to your favorite fishing locations, especially if you’d rather escape from the crowds!  The hassle of finding a suitable place to park a truck on narrow, rugged roads allows the pedal-powered angler to access spots that motorized fisherfolk often overlook.  They’re too busy looking for a turnout big enough for their massive pickup!  Many streams have singletrack trails running alongside and there are countless lakes and ponds accessible only by bike or on foot.  If you prefer solitude to fishing conditions resembling the lunch line at Burger King, bikefishing is for you.

p1190682
It almost doesn’t matter if you’re catching fish when you’re in the middle of a scene like this.

For me, fishing and bike riding have always gone hand-in-hand.  In fact, I was first motivated to pick up a fly rod by an experience I had on a bikepacking trip soon after moving to the Gem State.  I was pedaling my loaded bike on a backcountry dirt road paralleling one of central Idaho’s sparkling freestone streams.  Trout were easy to spy as I gazed down from road level into the riffles below.  Why wasn’t I down there in that beautiful river catching those fish!?  Since then, I’ve spent countless hours searching for fish in big rivers, small streams, alpine lakes and urban reservoirs by bicycle, on foot and occasionally with the aid of motor vehicles.  In this post, I’ll share some helpful tips from my experience to help you get out and fish by bicycle!  Feel free to chime in with your own thoughts and experiences in the comments below.

19042469174_33274fb769_o
The three B’s of fly fishing.

1:  Do your Homework! 

Plan ahead and prepare!  The amount of local knowledge and useful information accessible via the internet is a potent weapon in your arsenal.  Check fishing and weather reports so you can choose appropriate tackle, clothing and other gear, then leave the rest at home.  The USGS monitors water conditions for countless fisheries across the country.  Water temperature, level and flow are all useful pieces of information.  Local fish and game departments provide a wealth of information about fish stocking and species to expect in a particular piece of water.  Many fishing shops and outfitters post regularly-updated fishing reports online.  Stop into a local outfitter or fishing shop if you’re traveling far afield.  Good research and local knowledge may make the difference between catching one fish after another or getting skunked.

p1180704
The author’s rig packed to fish a backcountry pond, complete with cheap inflatable boat!

2: Don’t Throw a Rod!

Fishing rods can be challenging items to carry by bike, even when broken down and stored in a tube.  Bags with a flap – like Ostrich’s S-2 Saddlebag or Frost River’s Gunflint Trail (see photo above) and Caribou Trail work great.  Alternatively, you can use toestraps or Surly’s Junk Straps to lash the tube to the deck of a rack.  I would never recommend riding your bike with a fully-assembled rod.  You’re just begging for a potentially expensive accident.  It is also easy to strap a rod tube to many backpacks.  This carrying method works great if you’ll need to do a good deal of walking, hiking or scrambling to access your fishing location.  Otherwise, I prefer to ditch the backpack and let the bike carry the load.

p1190133
Brook trout caught from a hidden pool where few anglers venture.

3: Streamline your Setup! 

Do you really need multiple rods, reels, lines, a vest packed with gadgets and fly boxes with every imaginable imitation to catch fish?  Simplify, simplify.  You can’t just chuck your entire collection of outdoor gear in the back of the Subaru!  Space and weight are key considerations when fishing by bike.  While unnecessary gear will weigh you down and clutter your experience, you don’t want to leave critical equipment at home.  Tenkara rods may offer the ultimate in a simple fishing outfit.  With no reel and a featherweight telescopic rod that collapses into its 20″ handle, these fishing outfits are ideal equipment for the adventurous angler.

Tenkara: ultimate simplicity and packability!
Tenkara: ultimate simplicity and packability!

4: Wade Wisely (or not at all)!

Waders and wading boots are the bulkiest, heaviest and most cumbersome pieces of gear in most anglers’ closets.  Leave them at home unless you really need them.  Fishing from the bank is a great option and may even be preferable.  The long reach afforded by Tenkara rods is a big advantage in this situation.  If you choose to wade in warm conditions, wet wading can be a real joy and big part of the fun.  Sturdy sandals, Crocs or water shoes work fine for footwear.  Even on the hottest days, neoprene socks or booties help you fish longer by keeping your feet warm and preventing irritating debris from getting next to your skin.  When the mercury dips, you’ll definitely want to stay dry.  Fish from the banks, wear rubber boots or consider bringing those waders along.  Wear heat-retaining layers to stay warm in the chilly water.  You don’t have a heated vehicle to retreat to if you get chilled, so don’t forget to layer up and bring spare dry, insulating layers in case you take an unexpected dunking!

p1190680
You too can go fishing with the Bike Hermit!

5: Use a Shuttle (When Appropriate)!

While pedaling from home on a bike loaded with everything you need for a day, week or month of human-powered travel and fishing adventure sounds like a great idea, it isn’t always practical or possible.  If you have access to a vehicle, take advantage!  Drive out with your bike and gear, find a place to park or camp and strike out on the bike from there.  Though perhaps not as idealistically appealing, this approach can deliver the best of both worlds.  Who doesn’t like to return to a well-appointed campsite with a dry change of clothes, fully-stocked cooler and comfortable chair after a long day on the river?  If the fishing – not the riding – is your main focus this may be the ideal approach.

p1190240
Finding solitude on a hidden creek very close to – but so far away from – the heavily-fished waters of Rocky Mountain National Park.

6: Be Flexible!

Fishing is unpredictable, so don’t get disappointed if you don’t find immediate success.  Like the old bumper sticker says, “a bad day of fishing is still better than a good day at work!”  Approach each situation with an open mind and don’t be afraid to try new, different or unorthodox techniques.  The bike also gives you practically unlimited access to water far off the beaten track, so explore those side streams, tributaries and hidden pools.  Small fish often represent big success!

I hope you’ll find these tips helpful and get out on your bike for a day of fishing soon!  Did I forget anything?  Share your #bikefishing ideas and experiences in the comments section below.  Thanks for reading!  Now get away from that screen and #getoutandfish!

Categories
Bikepacking Idaho Living Vicariously Our Trips Surly Bikes Tours and Rides

Riding the Boundary: South Fork Owyhee Wilderness

In our overpopulated world, there are few places where humans rarely venture.  For better or worse, our species has learned how to make a living in just about every environment on Earth and has left only a precious handful of habitats unmolested.  Even in the most remote corner of Idaho – a state with more protected Wilderness than any in the lower 48 – evidence of human history is everywhere.  However, just because humans have been everywhere on our planet doesn’t mean they’re still around.  Some environments are not welcoming to our fragile and demanding bodies.  Despite the challenges of survival in hostile and difficult conditions, wild and unpopulated places call out to us.  The allure of traveling where few people have ever gone – places where evidence of human activity is nearly invisible – is a powerful draw.  This allure makes Wilderness travel undeniably attractive to a certain breed of people who are capable of cutting the cord and tuning in to a more basic way of living.  Five such adventurous souls recently struck out into the vast Wilderness surrounding the South Fork of the Owyhee River for three days of pedal-powered reconnaissance.  This is the story of that journey.

p1190711
The Crew: (L to R) Bike Hermit, Ryan, Wendell, Sky, Bryan

The group convened at the BLM headquarters in Boise to finalize a route and load gear for the 3-hour drive to our drop-off point east of the Duck Valley Indian Reservation, just north of the Nevada border.  After the long drive riding three-abreast in the pickup, we were happy to stretch our legs and breathe the sage-perfumed air while we unloaded bikes.

p1190708

We set off to the west just after 11am, pedaling through Horse Basin toward the Wilderness Boundary.  The miles passed with relative ease on the well packed two-track under sunny skies and with scarcely a hint of wind.  We ground our way up a gradual climb to the plateau and turned to the south in order to survey a longer section of wilderness boundary.

p1190724

This section of doubletrack was among the smoothest any of our group had ridden in the entire region and a slight tailwind began to push us northward.  The sea of sage was interrupted by two water tanks and windmills; aging remnants of ranch infrastructure.  Each one sat in a grassy circle cleared of sage and featured abandoned eagle nests tucked into the ladder handles of the water tank.  A draft of cool air blew up from the dry well near one of the tanks.  A rock dropped down the tube never found water.

p1190739

As we turned to the west along the boundary line, we came to a rock outcropping and saw the land fall away ahead of us.  From here, we descended into Wilderness along the Coyote Hole Cherrystem to the bank of the South Fork where we would make our first camp.  The road dropped gradually at first but became steeper as we neared the canyon rim.

p1190757

A badger scuttled off the road as we approached, making off into the underbrush.  With sheer rock walls on both sides, we followed the loose, rutted track down its final plunge to river level, finding the ruins of a stone house, livestock pen and even some rusting farming implements.

p1190771

p1190778

The prospect of scratching a living out of the side of this remote stream seemed pretty daunting, but compared with the barren plains above this was a paradise of plenty.  Springs bubbled out of the rocks above, delivering sweet water to wet our whistles.

p1190781

A brief exploration also revealed a river teeming with fish, which turned out to be Northern Pikeminnows.  This provided an ideal opportunity to test the borrowed Tenkara outfit the Bike Hermit packed along.  Thanks for the loan, Don!  This was the first time fishing with Tenkara for me and the Bike Hermit, so look forward to more about that experience in a future post.

p1190789

We awoke to temperatures barely above freezing and crawled from the warmth of our shelters to make our breakfast and coffee.  I noticed the tracks of what appeared to be a mountain lion just on the edge of our camp, along a path we had trod the evening before to access the river.  Did we have a visitor in the night?  I can’t say for sure, but it certainly appeared that the big cat had stalked through the bush less than 15 yards from where we slept.

p1190807

It seemed nobody was in a big hurry to tackle the climb back out of the river canyon.   The first pitches were definitely unrideable on our loaded bikes and even the more forgiving sections tested our legs and determination.  However, the exertions allowed us to quickly shake off the morning’s chill and we found ourselves back on the high plateau.  We made good time northbound along the boundary line, headed for the river ford near the 45 Ranch.

p1190828

 

p1190839

Once atop a small rise, we were greeted with a stunning panorama of the massive gash in the earth containing the South Fork.  It was clear that the descent to the 45 Ranch was going to be a wild ride, so we strapped our gear down tight and dropped in.  The well-traveled road was delightfully smooth in some spots and terrifyingly rough in others.  The switchbacking grade led us down to the homestead of the 45 Ranch, a privately-owned ranch in partnership with the BLM and the Nature Conservancy.  We passed by the ranch on the way to the boat launch where we would ford the South Fork.             p1190854

We paused at the river ford to partake of some victuals and prepare ourselves for the uneven footing and swift water.  Group members crossed the river using varying tactics.  Some – like Wendell – carried their bikes above the knee deep water…

p1190879

Some – like Sky – pushed their bike along the bottom.  I wonder who does her maintenance…

p1190881

After crossing the river, we left ranch property and returned to the Wilderness along the Little Owyhee Cherrystem.  We started out on a flat, rocky double-track between steep rock walls.  However, when traveling through the Canyonlands, what comes down must always go up.

p1190892

Our mild and scenic road soon turned steep and nasty.  This climb out of the river canyon would be the most trying of the trip.  The combination of intense midday sun, steep grades, deep ruts, off-camber tread, loose dirt and rolling rocks made this climb mentally and physically challenging.  The left-hand track was reasonably smooth and appeared rideable but the loose soil and steep camber caused wheels to slip into the rut at the slightest shift of weight.  Most of us were forced to push our bikes nearly all the way up from the valley floor.

p1190906

The climb ground upward and topped out just uphill from a wide-open barbed wire gate.  One downside to riding in the Canyonlands is that climbs are rarely rewarded with descents as they would be in the mountains.  Instead, we were taunted by steep rollers and an increasing headwind as we headed south, keeping the Wilderness boundary on our left.

p1190916

This section is among the least-visited in the entire Owyhee Canyonlands Wilderness.  Our track showed little evidence of human travel within the past several months, if not longer.  Animal scat, burrows, anthills and sagebrush abounded.  Jackrabbits, coyotes and birds of prey appeared the be the only main road users.  We investigated the heads of the Walcot and South Fork Cherrystems, neither of which had seen traffic in quite some time.

p1190930

After 14 “desert miles” riding through the wide open ocean of dust and sage along the boundary line, we crossed through a gate.  Somewhere past the gate we crossed the unmarked state boundary and into Nevada.  South of the fence, evidence of heavy horse use was everywhere.  Hoofprint potholes and heaping piles of “road apples” littered the double track and made for rough going.  The stiff headwind made life even more difficult.  We were feeling the effects of the tough climbs and long miles as we sought shelter and water for our evening’s camp.  Shadows were already growing long in the road, obscuring rocks and holes in the right-hand track.  Evidence of the fragility of life in the desert was all around.

p1190938

After cresting a small rise, we sighted a group of the horses responsible for the hoofprints and manure piles.  They became aware of our presence and pricked their ears in our direction.  However, they weren’t about to let us get very close.

p1190943

They turned tail and headed east, raising a mighty cloud of dust as they went.

p1190944

We encountered another group as we picked up the Paiute Pipeline road.  They’re just visible on the horizon in the photo below.  Despite their skittishness, we were in their territory and this wouldn’t be the last we’d hear of the horses.   We pedaled on, feeling battered by the rough road, headwind and long miles.  We were quite ready to reach our riverside camp and put our bikes to bed.

p1190947

Yet again, we braved a steep, rocky and loose descent into the river plain.  From our high point on the plateau, we looked out across the valley to see the Pipeline road continue across the basin and climb straight up the opposite wall far in the distance.  Evidence of horse mortality presented an ominous sign as we focused on making camp and put the next morning’s challenges out of our minds.

p1190955

With a sigh of relief we reached the second river ford of our trip.  Again, group members took varying approaches.  Wendell opted to stay on the south bank and make his camp above river level.  The rest of the crew elected to make the river crossing now rather than brave the chilly water in the morning.  In our depleted and mentally deficient state, pitching our camp in the middle of the road didn’t sound like such a bad idea.  We prepared our respective meals and turned into our shelters under a clear, starry sky.  The crystalline starscape is one of the biggest rewards for traveling in this tough and forbidding landscape.  Situated in the middle of one of the largest unpopulated areas anywhere in the United States, light pollution is practically non-existent.  I lay in my bivy sack for quite some time, watching shooting stars and soaking in the view of the Milky Way as I dozed off.

On the morning of the third day, the discussion centered around the question, “did you hear those horses last night?!”  At least one of the bands had descended from the plain above to river level for their evening drink, coming nearly right through our camp.  The thunder of their hooves pounding down the rocky slope shook the ground and woke us from our slumber.  The horses retreated when Wendell poked his headlamp out of his tent but continued to snort and stomp along the canyon rim.  Despite our fascination with the equine residents, it was time for us to leave this place.  We were due at the rally point at 11am to meet Evan and head back to civilization.  That meant another grind up from river level, which started right off the bat.

p1190956

This short but brutally steep stretch of Pipeline Road was littered with loose, round rocks that rolled like billiard balls at the slightest touch.  Even on an unloaded fatbike, I’m not sure if it could be climbed.  We had a difficult enough time walking up the cruel grade but were pleased that it didn’t last long.  As we headed northeast toward Idaho, evidence of horses faded and the track grew smoother.  A few rollers in the basin even delivered enough of a speed boost to get us into our big chainrings, perhaps for the first time on this odyssey.

p1190960

The climb out of the basin loomed large in the distance and we prepared ourselves for the final grunt of the trip.  The grade grew steeper the farther up the pitch we climbed and we were all forced to push our bikes to the rim.  Wendell and I waited at the top, watching the rest of the group approach and eyeing the route we had taken yesterday and this morning across the wide-open bowl of grass.

p1190962

Now back in Idaho, we continued to follow the Pipeline Road until we came across a dilapidated ranch outpost, complete with a two-story cabin, outhouse, workshop and corrals.  Despite the run-down appearance, it was clear that the property still got some occasional use but was no longer suitable as living quarters.  The cabin’s frame and foundation were solid but the roof and windows were long gone and the interior had fallen into deep disrepair.  We struggled to imagine the difficulty of survival through the bitterly cold and windy winters out here on this exposed, isolated plain.

p1190967

Just as we completed our explorations of the cabin and prepared to continue toward our meetup point, we saw the government pickup rumbling down the road toward us.  Our Wilderness adventure was finished.  With mixed emotions, we loaded our bikes and piled back into the truck for the drive back to the modern world.

p1190974

Despite – or perhaps because of – the challenges and difficulty, trips to remote corners of our planet leave us with a better sense of our place in the world.  We are reminded of the fragility of life, especially our own.  We are forced to return to a more basic way of thinking that places priority on simple survival.  When we return to the relative luxury and security of our normal lives, we do well to retain the perspective gained from journeys such as this.  However, regular doses of wildness are essential to the maintenance of that perspective.  That’s why places like this deserve to be protected.  That’s also why we’ll keep going back.

 

<—{—<<

 

 

Categories
Bike Touring Equipment Bike Touring Tips Idaho Tours and Rides

Lessons From the Trail: Doing it Better Next Time

We are always looking, hoping and striving for the best possible experience when we head out on a bike trip. Our free time to dedicate to these journeys is limited and valuable and we should do everything in our power to make the most of the opportunity. Many components in this alchemical equation are beyond our control. Weather, terrain, wild animals and innumerable other factors will all have a say in what we have to cope with out on the trail. We can try to plan and prepare for some of these unknowns but they are beyond our influence.

However, there are also key ingredients in an enjoyable bike trip that are wholly up to us. Our planning, preparation and packing all have the potential to make or break a trip. In hopes of improving our experience the next time, we look back upon returning to see what lessons can be learned. How did your planning, preparation and packing work out?  What worked and what didn’t?  What would you do differently next time? As you unpack, you have the opportunity to take a second look and assess your approach. Is there anything buried in the bottom of your bags that you had forgotten was there? Do you still have two pounds of food left over? By paying attention to these things during and after your trip, you’ll be able to learn from your mistakes and keep from repeating them in the future.

So, in hopes of offering some insight into this process, I’ll go through my unpacking and look back on the recent Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400. In doing so, I hope other new bikepackers and tourists will learn from my successes and failures so they can make their own mistakes rather than repeating mine! You may remember my Packing List and Planning posts on this blog. If you haven’t seen those I’d go back through them for the relevant background information.

 

Planning:

Overall, I’m pretty happy with my approach to the route. Given my lack of fitness and unfamiliarity with most of the terrain, I was well aware that any major setback could easily put me into a position where I would need an extra day to complete the route. So, I set out on Wednesday morning hoping to finish the ride before dark on Saturday but prepared to be out another night and finish on Sunday if needed. However, things went well out there and I was able to make it back to Boise’s Hyde Park neighborhood just before 7:00pm on Saturday. I was a bit disappointed to miss happy hour but the post-ride beer tasted just as sweet.

P1160142
Victory Beers in Boise!

My daily distance goals proved to be attainable, though perhaps more difficult to reach than I expected. I’ll also admit to underestimating the amount of time the tougher climbs would require and the physical toll they would take. When planning, it is easy to be overly optimistic and forget how grueling long climbs can be on a loaded bike and I fell into that trap. Because of my lack of respect for the climbs – especially the grind up to the Dollarhide summit – I fell short of my goal to reach Redfish Lake on the second night.  Looking back, I made the right call to stop and bed down rather than push on longer into the night. I made up the difference the next day over more level terrain and made it to Deadwood Reservoir on night 3 with daylight to spare.

P1150933
Dollarhide Summit

On a navigational side note, I did have some difficulties with my Garmin. I don’t know if other riders had similar experiences with their GPS equipment but my Edge 500 seemed to be struggling to communicate with its satellite and was very slow to update my position. Not a lot of satellites over Idaho, perhaps? I wasted a good deal of time standing still, waiting for it to re-find the route after going off-course. I was glad to have the Garmin but learned to keep the cue sheet handy to avoid missing turns. A handlebar bag with a map case is an ideal place to carry a map or cues and I’d like to experiment with different front carrying setups on future rides. Storing it under the strap on my handlebar bag works but is far from ideal.

P1160033
Cockpit Setup

Also, I was very happy with the Revelate Feed Bag and found it to be a perfect addition to my cockpit. The ease of access to my trail mix and other snacks was excellent and allowed me to keep a constant flow of food coming in. The outer mesh pockets also provided a perfect place to stuff energy bars, empty wrappers, my audio recorder and other small objects that I wanted to keep close at hand. The attachment was simple and secure, though the stabilizer strap that loops under the fork crown was just barely long enough for my bike. Riders on more modern mountain bikes with tall forks and short head tubes won’t have problems but folks with high handlebars and non-suspension corrected front ends may have to improvise an extension to the strap.

 

Preparation:

I was not in the best of shape coming into this event. Other than quick rips on the mountain bike up in the Boise foothills and riding to get around town, I haven’t been on the bike much since returning from my short trip on the Hot Springs route back in July. Given that less than three weeks intervened between my hearing of the event and taking the start on September 10, there really wasn’t time for training. Mostly, I just focused on sleeping well, getting quality food in me and drinking enough water. Given that I much prefer hoppy beverages to plain water, this can be a challenge! I was certainly well-rested and had the leftover base from my other long rides this summer to get through the Smoke ‘n’ Fire but suffered more than I would have liked. I made up for my lack of fitness with experience and a conservative approach to the event. I knew I couldn’t afford to take big risks.

P1150971
The Boulder Mountains seen from the Harriman Trail

Overall, I measured my efforts well, stayed within my limits and got through each day’s ride about as well as I could expect. I only had one cramp (while putting socks on in my bivy), consistently ate and digested well and only had a small handful of nagging aches and pains beyond the normal soreness and fatigue. I had some pain in my achilles tendons, usually a symptom of a too-high saddle. I dropped it 2-3mm on the second day and things improved a bit. I also had some minor saddle sores and chafing. This could also be attributed to the too-high saddle forcing me to rock my hips on the seat. This point illustrates the need to put in plenty of pre-trip miles on the bike you’ll be touring or bikepacking on. Had I been riding the RandoGnar and not my mountain bike for the weeks before the race I would have discovered the saddle issue beforehand and corrected it before it caused issues.

On a related bike-preparation note, this ride certainly pushed the limits of singletrack riding that I would knowingly undertake with my current handlebar configuration. I love all the hand and body positions that my long-reach, deep-drop handlebars offer on easier terrain but they place me at a disadvantage when things get steep, rough or technical. For future trips with more singletrack riding, I’d switch to a more upright handlebar configuration. Something like the Jones H-Bars might be ideal as they offer a wide range of hand and body positions and would put me in a stronger position to attack difficult terrain.

P1150812
Nasty, washed-out trail

 

Packing:

It is easy to nerd out over this department. Sure, there are map nerds and fitness nerds out there too with their own brand of dorkery but nobody nerds out like gear nerds. You know the signs. You’ve seen the shelves and closets overflowing with x-pac, down, silnylon, titanium and carbon fiber. I’m talking about computerized spreadsheets with a few-thousand bucks worth of outdoor gear and bike parts all described, tagged, weighed, starred, “faved” and color-coded. And of course, everyone’s favorite obsession – light weight – is actually kind of a big deal when you’re talking about pedaling the whole mess up and down mountains for a few days. However, any factor in your planning, preparation or packing stands to wreck your trip if you screw it up – no one more than the others – so don’t forget to do your due diligence in other areas. Don’t let the gear get in the way of the experience.

I try to choose gear that is space-efficient and functional and try not to obsess about the weight. I can’t afford to re-outfit myself with the ideal kit for every trip so I’d rather purchase gear that is versatile and durable. For the most part, I think I packed well. I used every piece of gear I carried except for the ones I always hope not to use: tools and first aid.

However, the colder-than-expected temperatures in the low twenties (one night set a record low near Stanley) certainly pushed the limits of my equipment. If I had gone any lighter on shelter or clothing I could have easily gotten dangerously cold. I had a tough time keeping warm through my second-night bivy at the bottom of the Williams Creek Trail, high up in the Wood River Valley.

P1160002
Daybreak in the Valley of the Sawtooths

The frigid air seemed to sneak in through imaginary drafts in my bivy and sleeping bag though both were zipped and cinched tight except for a small breathing vent to prevent buildup of condensation inside the bivy. My feet suffered the worst of it. They were just starting to warm up and come back to life after some jumping jacks until I got back on the bike. The icy wind pierced my meshy shoes like needles. I improvised toe covers from a pair of ProBar wrappers (inserted over my socks, inside the shoes) which helped cut the chill and retain some heat.

P1160028
Putting the “PRO” in ImPROvisation

More substantial gloves, toe covers and/or chemical warmers in my shoes would have made the chilly mornings much less painful. Also, despite the lack of extra space in my bivy, I’ll be sleeping with my shoes on future trips where lows are expected to be below freezing. All the icy metal, plastic and carbon fiber in the soles of my shoes sucked the heat out of my feet faster than my blood could circulate.

Food-wise, I was pretty happy with what I carried and how much. I made one resupply stop in Stanley where I purchased some additional ride food (beef jerky, Baby Ruth, Snickers, Mr. Goodbar, two bananas) and supplements (pouch of chunk chicken, Ramen noodles) for my final dinner on the trail.

P1160069
Dinner at Deadwood Reservoir: Lentil Soup with Chicken and Ramen

I stopped at some of the convenience/general stores along the way when they were available for cold drinks and to refill water. I also enjoyed a beverage stop with some new friends at the Featherville Saloon on day 1 and an amazing breakfast on the morning of day 3 at the Redfish Lake Lodge.

P1150869
Frosty Beverages in Featherville
P1160021
The “Northwest Breakfast” at Redfish Lake

Aside from these little luxuries, I ate and drank only what I carried and was able to ride safe in the knowledge that I had plenty of calories on board, could filter water from any of the many streams on the route and cook up a hot meal whenever appropriate. Conversely, with good route and resupply information, proper planning and measured riding, one could tackle this route (as many did) with a bare minimum of food on the bike, relying on services in towns and outposts along the way. Although a more expensive way to travel, this tactic certainly has its benefits as food gets heavy fast. It would have been easy to drop several pounds of weight off my bike by leaving the cookset and camp food at home but I would have had to sacrifice a good deal of my self-sufficiency and independence. For my purposes, it wasn’t worth it.

P1160099
Breakfast atop Scott Mountain

I rode into the darkness on both of the first two nights and found my lighting setup to be nearly ideal. The combination of the dynamo-powered headlight fixed to my front rack and the USB-rechargeable lamp on my helmet worked well in a variety of conditions. I could use the low, wide, bright beam cast by the dynamo light for most roads and supplement that light with the headlamp’s powerful spot for singletrack or whenever a more precisely-directed beam was needed.

P1150901
Helmet-Mounted Light at Five Points Campground

This system really proved itself on the second day. I had used the CygoLite for the last couple of hours on my first evening’s ride and continued to employ it while I cooked my dinner and made camp that night. I plugged it into the Sinewave Cycles Reactor as shadows began to grow long on the second day, got it topped back up to a full charge and used it for three or four solid hours on the second night to get me through the Fisher Creek/Williams Creek singletrack section under the light of the stars. This descent was one of the highlights of the trip and would not have been any fun at all with sub-par lighting.

P1150994
Last Rays of Sun Over the Sawtooths

Looking back, it is hard to see this ride as anything other than a great success.  Even so, I’m still looking forward to refining my approach to future rides and applying what I’ve learned.  I hope these posts have been helpful and entertaining.  Feel free to leave your questions and comments below.  Thanks for reading!

Categories
Idaho Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route Tours and Rides

Sifting Ashes from the Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400

So, what happened out there? Frankly, I’m not entirely sure. Even after nearly three days back at home and two glorious nights of sleep in my own bed I’m still sifting the ashes. All the oversaturated visions of rivers, mountains, valleys and canyons I had out there in the Idaho high country are swept into a continuous blurred mental replay that rolls to the soundtrack of fat tires rumbling over rock and gravel. I’ve been digging back through the artifacts – the empty wrappers and dirt-crusted bottles, the filthy clothes and foul-smelling socks, the crumpled maps and GPS tracks and the photographs and the journal entries – looking for answers. The excavation stirs the cooling embers of the fire that burned bright for four days but only a pale glow is left, barely visible in daylight. I can feel it in my still-tingling toes, swollen ankles and healing saddle sores. The photos are there, all 354 of them, but they don’t look quite like I remember them… There they are, the hot springs, the sheep herd, the hairpin turns, the bald eagle, the endless road. Depending on shutter speed, all of these photos account for somewhere around six seconds of total time over the course of 84 hours out there in Idaho. What happened in between?

P1150859

For those on the outside of this event, Trackleaders’ ride tracking page offered a God’s-eye view of the action that feels something like a game of Pac-Man played in super-slow-motion. Through the miracles of satellite photographs and map overlays, the casual spectator had access to a wealth of information about the event as it unfolded in real time. Much like Santa Claus, they knew when we were sleeping, knew when we were awake and could probably make an educated judgement as to wether we were being bad or good. But while the race replay feature can show you who won and who slept and where we got lost, those little tracker pins racing around like deranged slot cars don’t really tell you much about what happens out there.

P1160040

Despite all this recording of ones and zeros, there are massive gaps in the record: moments that went wholly undocumented or recorded in any way. These moments could hardly even be called memories as they were experienced in a state of no-mind.

After a couple of days, the routine of pedaling ones bike from sunup to sundown becomes natural. Time begins to distort. Sometimes hours fly by and you note the passage of time only when your shadow appears on the right rather than the left. Eventually – like a circumambulating pilgrim – we find a mental space in which we move through the landscape just as it moves through us, leaving only a faint track and puff of dust. A vague trace is all that is left of our passage, each through the other. No GPS data, no pixels or POIs on a map can tell those stories. The times of most complete focus make the greatest impact but leave us with only a vague notion of what happened, like a smeared painting or dream forgotten upon awakening.

P1150992

So why do we go? What pulls us from of our comfortable lives out onto the trail where we are at the mercy of the elements and forces of nature that we could never understand?

Sometimes we need a challenge put to us. We need a test to pass, an opportunity to excel, to show our abilities and prove ourselves. Prove ourselves to who? Ourselves, mostly. To prove to ourselves that we can do bigger and better things that perhaps we ever thought we could.

Sometimes we need to escape. Escapism is a natural reaction to conditions that offend our spirits so we seek an escape into a simpler world to restore a sense of balance. Finding this balance point isn’t easy, however. Tip the scales too far and you might be gone for good.

Sometimes we’re chasing. We’re looking for something – we’re not sure what – that we lost along the way. Or we’re striving for a goal, driven on by the desire to acheive, conquer and win. Looking for one more fix, one more thrill.

P1150930

No matter what drives us out into these places, out on our bikes over mountain passes and down harrowing descents, through darkness and blinding sun, frost and fire, we all end up finding something. It is different for all of us and that is what keeps us coming back. To get one more taste, to draw the cold, pre-dawn air into your lungs and feel it purify you as you round a bend on a high mountain pass. We go as explorers of the world within us and without us, to adjust our sense of scale and reckoning of our position. We go to be put in our place. To be awed and humbled by the majesty of the world outside the narrow tunnel we often see through.

P1150916

We go to lose our minds, to find our no-mind, to forget everything except the essential: food, water, clothing, shelter and forward progress. Always forward. The mountains, rivers, pairies and gorges of central Idaho are the perfect place to outrun whatever chases us and find whatever we’re looking for. Out in this wide-open country there is room for us to grow and expand beyond the normal bounds that we exist in. The clear, blue air and cold, crystalline streams carry our hopes and dreams. We just have to carry enough food.

P1150981

Upon returning, our charge is to carry the clarity of vision, simplicity of purpose and purity of drive found on the road into everyday life. This isn’t easy. Reintegration into a world that scarcely understands what we’ve lived through is not a simple matter. How does one explain the deeply-felt but inexplicable meaning of such a journey to friends, family or co-workers? To those who haven’t experienced something similar, it’s just a long bike ride and you’re just crazy for doing it. The truth is, they’re right on both counts. But there is more beneath the surface of a long bike ride.

To leave the lessons of the trail behind is to decline a great gift. Our daily lives can be hurried and complex, filled with a paralyzing array of choices or possibilities. With no cue sheet, route map or GPS track to guide us, we have to make our own way and find our own path. We must continue to seek moments of no-mind, break free of old patterns and habits that keep us trapped in a stable, predictable but ultimately unsatisfying existence. If we get it right, we’ll look at our familiar world through new eyes, see everything always for the first time, dream, chase and dream again.

P1160137

 >~\~>

See my pre-ride entries about packing and planning for the Smoke ‘n’ Fire 400.

Thanks for reading.

All photos ©Ryan King
flickr.com/photos/rspinnaking