Categories
The Touring Bicycle Wheel Touring Bicycles

Wheel Size- Myth and Theory

Every size of the Long Haul Trucker bicycle, from the tiny 46cm bike to the gargantuan 64cm bike is available with 26″ wheels. 56cm and larger frames also come in 700c wheel versions while 54cm and smaller bikes only come with 26″ wheels. Why do they do that? Why can’t you buy a smaller bike with 700c wheels? And how do I choose between 26″ and 700c wheels on my 62cm Long Haul Trucker?

A Surly LHT in black with 700c wheels
700c wheel on a 56cm Long Haul Trucker. Nice proportions.

 

Big bike..little wheels
62cm Surly Deluxe Trucker with 26″ wheels
58cm Surly Disc Trucker w/26″ wheels

First, some bike design theory:
As a bike frame shrinks in size 700c wheels become problematic in a couple of ways. Georgina Terry from Terry Bicycles does a fantastic job of qualifying those problems in her videos about Bicycle Design
With a given wheel size- in this case 700c- there is a limit to how low the top tube can be before you run out of head tube and how short it can be before the rider’s foot starts hitting the front wheel.
Some bike manufacturers call some of their smaller bikes “women’s specific” and paint them in girly colors, which is nothing less than a marketing gimmick. Mainstream bike companies assume that the market will demand 700c wheels on their “road bikes” and so they compromise the design of the smaller bikes by changing the angle of the seat tube to make the top tube shorter and they change the angle of the headtube to mitigate toe overlap with the front wheel, which also helps make the top tube shorter.

A better way, and the way good bike designers like Terry, Rivendell and Surly do it is to change to a smaller size wheel as the frame size shrinks. Rivendell and Surly change both front and rear wheel sizes while Terry uses a smaller front wheel with a 700c rear wheel.
Terry Precision -- SOLD

A truism I hear all the time is that 700c wheels are faster than 650b or 26″ wheels. But I don’t buy it. That’s what they make gears for. A 26″ wheel will be spinning faster than a 700c wheel would be at the same velocity so the rider might be in a higher gear.  Surly makes the analogy of a tractor compared to a Formula One car….the controlling factors being gearing, suppleness and quality/type of tire and the motor.

What about handling of a bike with the smaller tires? Georgina Terry simply says that the front end is designed for the a smaller tires and so the handling isn’t twitchy. One of those design features taken from the Surly geometry charts is a slightly more slack head tube on the 26″ bikes which results in a similar trail when compared to the 700c bikes. I do think that a bike with 26″ wheels rides differently than one with larger wheels, simply because of that gyroscopic thing.

The reason Surly decided a couple years ago to offer every size LHT and Disc Trucker in 26″ wheel versions is that the 26″ wheel size is more ubiquitous around the world and replacement wheels and tires should be easier to find. So if you plan on touring in countries outside the US, 26″ wheels might be a good way to go. Come to think of it, there may more 26″ wheels and tires available here too in out of the way places. I’m reminded of the story of the couple traveling between Portland and Boise when they accepted a ride in a pickup truck and her bike fell out at 60 MPH. The rear wheel was ruined but their hosts had an old mountain bike in a shed from which she was able to salvage a serviceable wheel.

So, to summarize:
-Small bike…small wheels
-Larger bike and desire to find replacement wheels/tires wherever one may tour (or desire to run really fat tires) …26″ wheels.
-If you think 26″ wheels on bigger bikes look funny….700c wheels
-If you are convinced that 700c wheels are somehow faster…get those (assuming, of course, you think going faster is a good thing)

Categories
Drivetrain Touring Bike Components

The Bicycle Wheel

What makes a good wheelset for loaded bicycle touring? Durability will probably rate high in any list of desirable attributes. So, what makes a bicycle wheel durable?
Rims:
An extruded aluminum double wall rim with a box section for strength. Drilled for 32 or 36 spokes with eyelets in the spoke holes. Eyelets can help distribute stresses and prevent galling of the metal where the spoke nipples rest. My personal favorite rims are Mavic CXP33 because they have a socket attached to the eyelet which distributes load to both walls of the rim. Another consideration when choosing a rim should be the width of the tire to be used. Schwalbe, the tire manufacturer addresses that on their website.

cross section of aluminum rim
A double wall, box section rim. Photo from Wikipedia

Spokes:
Spokes are normally made of stainless steel and are of uniform thickness the entire length (straight gauge) or are swaged to be skinnier in the middle (double or triple butted). Counterintuitively, double butted spokes are a better choice for durable wheels for a number of reasons. The skinny part is made skinny by drawing that section of the spoke through a reducing die which increases it’s strength by work hardening. The swaged spoke is more elastic and absorbs the stresses in the mid section rather than concentrating it in the elbows and threads. The third advantage requires a discussion of lacing patterns.

A “3-cross” lacing pattern means that any one spoke will cross over three other spokes on it’s way from the rim to the hub. Actually it will cross over two and under one. Without going into a lot of detail (mostly because I would probably get it wrong) the stresses induced in a spoke when the wheel goes around under the rider and load are in that way shared by more spokes. Swaged or double butted spokes do a better job of sharing this stress than straight gauge spokes by their virtue of being more resilient – they flex more.

 a front bicycle wheel
A 3-cross spoke pattern. Photo from Wikipedia

Hubs:
Hubs must carry the individual spokes and be strong enough for the combined force of all the spokes in a finished wheel, a force that can equal a half ton in a 36 spoke wheel. Hubs can use loose bearings or cartridge bearings with benefits and drawbacks to both. An oversize and/or steel axle can be stronger for load carrying than a smaller alloy axle. As a generalization, most manufacturers will turn to aluminum or other exotic materials in their quest for lightweight in the upper end range, so it might be better for the touring cyclist to actually buy the less expensive models if they use more robust and durable materials.

Wheels can fail from sudden loads, such as in a crash, or running into an immovable object, or from fatigue. Rims can be abraded by sand and road grit imbedded in the brake pads, and can eventually fail when the force of the inflated tire breaks the wall of the rim. Rear wheels carry more weight and receive more stress because of the rigidity of the rear triangle.

Most spokes will fail at the elbow where they enter the hub due to fatigue. A properly built and tensioned wheel laced in a three cross pattern can reduce the risk of fatigue failure.

Many new bikes come with original equipment wheels that look light and fast because they only have a few spokes and aerodynamic rims. However, semi-aerodynamic and aerodynamic wheelsets tend to be heavier than more traditional spoked wheelsets due to the extra shapings of the rims and spokes. More important, the rims must be heavier when there are fewer spokes, as the unsupported span between spokes is greater.

I borrowed heavily for this post from the book The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt. If you want more about the theory behind the spoked bicycle wheel and want to have a go at building your own wheels, this book is a must.

The late, great Sheldon Brown’s site is an encyclopedia of all thing bikey, and this page tells how to lace a wheel.

 

 

Categories
Drivetrain Hermit's Workshop Touring Bike Components

FiberFix Emergency Spoke Replacement Kit

The FiberFix Emergency Spoke Repair Kit

We just got these in at the Bike Touring News Store.
The FiberFix replacement spoke is an aramid cord with a metal “cam” attached. When a spoke breaks the wheel will have a wobble which will probably rub on the bike frame and or the brake pads. If not repaired right away, other spokes may start to go as well. For the mechanically challenged, when a spoke breaks the FIberFix spoke replacement is a good alternative to removing wheels, tires and possibly cassettes. Just thread the included attachment piece into the remaining spoke nipple on the rim, thread the cord down to the hub and back up to the piece threaded into the nipple and tighten.

Here are some reviews at crazyguyonabike.
Might want to bring two!

Categories
Touring Bicycles

Steel Bikes And Comfort

Even though I’m a fan of steel bikes, it’s mostly because of the durability of the material. I certainly like the ride quality too, but I think the idea that steel is a more plush or forgiving ride because it flexes or dampens is hogwash. The idea has almost become gospel now just because it’s been repeated so many times.  Don’t get me wrong, I know my steel bike frames flex…. I can hear my fender and/or brake and/or front derailleur rub from time to time if they are a little out of whack and I am pressing hard on the pedals. But that is torsional flex.

It’s the idea of vertical flex of a bicycle frame I have a hard time envisioning.

Scientific diagram

Imagine the arrows to be balancing the downward force of the rider and the bike.