Categories
Bikepacking Idaho Our Trips

Crossing Crutcher Crossing: Bikepacking Overnighter

The Crossing
The Crossing

It’s Friday afternoon about 4:30 and I’m in the weeds. I’ve had pretty steady walk in traffic  and I am just starting to fulfill the online orders which came in today. Don’t get me wrong; these are good problems and I really appreciate every customer. But I’m tired, and the thought of going to a dinner party tonight and then getting the bikes ready for an overnight bikepacking trip tomorrow is actually depressing. That’s the opposite of how it’s supposed to work: we go to dinner parties and plan trips in order to relax and rejuvenate and get away from the grind, I think. Maybe the depression was just from feeling too tired to do the things that normally are enjoyable. Luckily, Sky King never cuts me any slack, and so I change my clothes and trudge off to the dinner party, which turns out not to be horrible. The other attendees are wine aficionados, which the Bike Hermit is not. I feel a little intimidated and inadequate as I quaff my Josephsbrau Heller Bock. But I do learn some stuff about wine and sample most of the varieties which were paired with the different courses. The hostess is a great cook and the company is highly entertaining. In spite of my plans to be irascible, I enjoy myself and by the time we walk home I feel quite a bit better. (maybe it was all the wine sampling?)

We have the bikes loaded in the truck along with all our gear by mid-morning and we head south out of Boise. It is probably 2:30 PM or so by the time we start riding. Even though it is over 100 degrees in Boise today it is not even 90 here at 7,000 feet. A rancher rides up on a four-wheeler with his horse’s saddle slung across the front. We ask him for directions and about the road and we discover that he and his fellow wranglers just drove some cattle down to Bull Basin- where he left his horse.  His speech is slow and deliberate, as if he is carefully considering what he is going to say.  I imagine I see the beginnings of a grin as he thinks to himself things he decides not to say. I’m sort of disappointed that he is wearing a ball cap, even if his boots appear authentic cowboy. Why not be totally awesome and wear a custom West Texas Cattleman if you are living the life?

We roll generally downhill for 9 miles to Bull Basin where the road t-bones at a posted gate, behind which stands our cowboy’s paint. We turn left and through a second gate, which is posted with a bleached out sign which is unreadable, into a fenced  compound where the cattle are chilling. The road crosses a swampy spring with water the color of black tea, passes through another gate and heads up out of the basin. This last gate is not signed which makes me believe the short section of private land we just crossed is de facto not posted.

Big country!
Big country!

Western Sky

Gravel grovelling.
Gravel grovelling.

It was almost 7 PM by the time we reached Crutcher Crossing. We drank our cans of Dales Pale Ale, bathed in the Owyhee River, ate dinner and passed out. In the morning we ate breakfast, packed the bikes and headed back up the trail. This was a very workmanlike S24O bikepacking overnighter, but I still felt as though I had escaped the grind.  I was physically very tired but mentally prepared to get back to the salt mine on Monday.

Evening in the canyon
Evening in the canyon

Sunflowers

The Crossing
The Crossing
Pushing out of the Owyhee river canyon
Pushing out of the Owyhee river canyon
Desert mover; Surly Troll with 2.75 inch Dirt Wizard tires.
Desert mover; Surly Troll with 2.75 inch Dirt Wizard tire in front and Schwalbe Rock Razor 2.35 in back.

 

 

Categories
Advocacy/Awareness

The Bicycle Threat

 ASLE is an acronym for the Association for the Study of Literature and Environment. Those words together in that order adumbrate concepts beyond the scope of these pages, indeed, concepts beyond the understanding of yours truly. Evan Worthington, who is one of the Boise BLM Wilderness Rangers forwarded to me a draft of a paper presented by Matthew Pangborn at the 2015 ASLE Conference in Moscow, ID. Mr. Pangborn gave permission to Evan to share the paper as he sees fit, so I consider that permission to have accrued to me. The paper presents ideas I have often had but communicates them in ways I never could. In the paper a bicycle becomes a text, is seen as a triviality, then as an annoyance and finally as a threat. Hope you enjoy it and will respond with comments.

(I should have checked with Mr. Pangborn first. Because of the arcane rules of traditional publishing he would not allow me to post this. Trust me though; it was real good.)

Categories
Fenders

Installing Berthoud Fenders on the Surly Disc Trucker

A bicycle with disc brakes can present some challenges when it comes to attaching fenders and, sometimes, racks. Especially tricky is the front wheel where the brake caliper is bolted onto the adapter on the back side of the left fork blade. In my experience the Gilles Berthoud stainless steel fenders are the perfect fender for the Surly Disc Trucker or the Long Haul Trucker for that matter. The single stay for both front and rear fenders is easier to deal with than the twin stay design of most composite fenders. The stays attach low on the backside of the front fender which not only looks elegant but cleanly routes the stay below the front brake caliper.

Having installed dozens of these fender sets, it occurred to me that some people might be interested in a short tutorial on how to go about it. So hopefully this will be useful.

Installation tools needed:

A person could get by with a Dremel cutoff tool or a hacksaw instead of the bolt cutters. Everything else is pretty essential. Only one hole needs to be drilled and that in the rear fender at the brake bridge.
A person could get by with a Dremel cutoff tool or a hacksaw instead of the bolt cutters. Everything else is pretty essential. Only one hole needs to be drilled and that in the rear fender at the brake bridge.

– Drill with a sharp 5mm or 13/64″ bit.
– Cloth tape measure or a piece of string to find the center of the fender.
– 10mm and 7mm socket or box wrenches
– 3mm and 2.5mm hex wrenches
– Bolt cutters or Dremel tool with a cutoff blade. (A hacksaw will work in a pinch).
– Metal file
– Metal punch to start drill bit
– Permanent marker (Sharpie)

Parts Included:

fender parts
4 p-clamps with bolts and washers. Daruma bolt. L-bracket. 4 bolts, washers and nuts to attach stays to fenders

Front Fender:

The Gilles Berthoud fenders are packaged with an eyebolt or “daruma” bolt for the front fender. Berthoud assumes the bike will have either sidepull or centerpull brakes and the eye of the daruma bolt slips over the brake bolt and dangles down out of the bottom of the fork steer tube. If your bike has cantilever or disc brakes you will need a 5mm or 6mm bolt long enough to go completely through the fork crown (Hopefully your bike has a hole drilled through) with enough thread left over to screw on a nut with a lock washer. A 35mm bolt usually is long enough for this.

The front fender receives the dangling daruma bolt through the pre-drilled hole and is spaced away from the fork crown with the included metal fender washer and rubber washer. Berthoud also assumes the bike will have a 1″ steer tube so for a 1 1/8″ steer tube I use a larger fender washer than the one supplied.

P21432211
Dangling daruma.
P21432221
Here the front fender is attached with the large metal fender washer and rubber washer. The daruma bolt hangs inside the steer tube from the bolt through the fork crown. A 10mm nut on the bottom side of the fender threads onto the daruma and holds everything in place.
Fender stay attachment for Berthoud stainless steel front fender
Here is the attachment of the fender stay to the front fender. I like to put the pan head bolt on the inside and the nuts on the outside to mitigate debris collection between the tire and the fender.

I usually bolt on the front stays before I make the fork crown attachment and I loosely screw the fender stay p-clamps to the holes in the fork dropout. Once the fender is in place at the fork crown I put the tire back on the bike and hold the back end of the fender in place while I line up the ends of the stays with the p-clamps and mark them with a sharpie where they will need to be cut. I snip off the ends with a pair of bolt cutters (the Dremel tool or a hack saw could be used here) and file the sharp edges before slipping them into the p-clamps for final tightening.

P21432291
This is obviously the rear wheel but I mark the stays for the front in the same way. The black p-clamp is lightly bolted onto the bike and with the fender held in place the stay (blurry in this picture, I know) is marked where it will end up flush with the end of the clamp.
P21432381
With the installation finished, the stay sweeps neatly under the front disc brake caliper.


Rear Fender:

A bicycle with a well thought out design for the rear wheel disc brake adapter places the caliper inside the triangle created by the seatstay and chainstay, where it is out of the way of the fender stay attachments. As such, the rear fender is usually less of a challenge; at least relative to the disc brake. But the installation usually involves removing and replacing the wheel several times in order to make adjustments to the fender line.

P21432261
Dry fit of the rear fender.

I start by holding the rear fender in place to see how much clearance there is at the front, between the chainstays and between the fender and the bridge between the chainstays. Usually, a spacer, which can be anything from a sawed off wine cork to a piece of aluminum tubing to 3 or 4 of those little washers that screw onto tube valve stems, is required between the bridge and the fender.

P21432281
Here is the first attachment. I used a piece of aluminum tubing from the hardware store for a spacer. Sawed off wine bottle corks work too. Oh, you might need a longer bolt here.

 

This is the first solid attachment I make. Again, the stays are bolted onto the fender before I start, so once I make the first attachment I can put the wheel back on and hold the rear end of the fender in place to mark where I want to cut the stays. Once those are cut to length and the sharp edges filed off they can be clamped into the p-clamps. There is one final, crucial step to installing the rear fenders. After the fender line has been established, and everything is held in place on the bike with the connections I have already made, it is time to drill a hole in the fender where it will be bolted onto the brake bridge. Here is the third assumption that Berthoud makes; that the bike in question has a threaded hole on the bottom of the brake bridge into which a bolt holding the fender can be screwed.  If the bike does have the threaded hole then it is relatively simple to mark the spot on the fender and drill the hole. To find the spot to drill the hole for an L-bracket, bolt the bracket onto the brake bridge and, holding the fender at the desired clearance from the tire, mark the hole locations with the Sharpie.

 

P21432311

 

 

P21432341
It’s easier to make this mark if the L-bracket is bolted onto the brake bridge.

Mark the hole and find the center of the fender crown using the cloth tape measure or the string. The metal punch is sort of critical because stainless steel is hard and the drill bit will wander around before starting to cut if there is not some sort of indentation for a guide. A one-hand-held spring punch is ideal for this.

I just read through this instructional and it seems sort of complicated for the average person who doesn’t do this sort of thing everyday. I can say that installing fenders takes way more time than I can reasonably charge for. However, if one has some patience and a modicum of skill, or desire to learn, along with a few tools, it can be sort of rewarding. Then there is the opinion (mine) that a touring bike only looks complete after fenders have been installed. Hope this helps somebody. Please comment if I have left anything out or left you more confused than when you started reading.

 

 

Categories
Lights and Electronics

More on Dynamo Lights

Lately we have been selling and installing more dynamo powered headlights and tail lights from Busch & Muller and Schmidt as well as a few from Supernova. This post will cover some mounting options and some tail light wiring details.

We have the Nitto Lamp Holder for Nitto M-18 and M-1 racks. There is a left and a right side version depending, obviously, on which side you want to mount the light. I set up the left side mount on my bike and bolted on a couple of lights to see how it works. The mount can be bolted on anywhere along the stay but I think I would put it at the highest point that will still keep the top of the light below the rack platform. The bracket can also be clamped either on the outside of the stay or on the inside depending on the light being used.

nitto lamp holder
This is the left side Nitto Lamp Holder. The right bracket is a mirror of this. The eye bolt with grooved washer slips over the end of the rack stay.
lamp holder
Nitto Lamp Holder for left side. Right side is a mirror.
lamp
This is the B&M Lumotec IQ mounted on the left Nitto Lamp Holder.
light on bracket
Here the bracket is mounted outside the stay.
light on bracket
This is with the bracket mounted inside the stay.
lamp holder and rack
Schmidt Edelux on the Nitto Lamp Holder and M-18 Rack
Supernova dynamo light
This is the Supernova E3 Triple with handlebar mount.
light on fork mount
The Schmidt Edelux ll on a fork crown mount.
red light
This is another Edelux light mounted on a different type of fork crown mount

In the two above photos above can be seen the tail light wire, the ground leg terminated with a Schmidt ground connector which is sandwiched between the light body and the mounting bracket when the mounting bolt is run through. The other end is terminated with a 2.8mm connector and plugged into the mating connector in the base of the light. The Schmidt headlights use this configuration but the Busch & Muller lights have connections for two 2.8 mm fittings so one doesn’t have to mess with a separate ground connection when using a wired tail light. The hard-wired wire in the base of the light goes to the dynamo hub. All wired tail lights are wired into and operated by the headlight, not the hub.
Here I am making up the connectors for the tail light wire;

P21532421
The 2.8 connector crimped on. Ready to crimp on the ground connector; don’t forget to put another piece of shrink tubing above the ground connector before crimping.
wire connections
Oops, forgot the heat shrink tubing

ch

back of bicycle light
The wired tail lights have two 2.8mm spade connectors. There is a positive and a negative.

I finally got tired of having a battery tail light because it was just too undependable, partly because I often forgot to switch it off and the batteries died. I mounted the Busch & Muller Secula Plus fender mount light and it has been fantastic. There is no switch, the light is on whenever the headlight is on. And there is a built in capacitor so when I stop at an intersection the light stays lit for a few minutes. Simple, idiotproof, reliable and super bright!

fender light
Secula Plus fender mount light. Note the messy wiring!
light
In standlight mode; the light stays on with power from the built in capacitor. Neat!

 

Categories
Bike Touring Tips Touring Bicycles

How to Load a Touring Bike.

I have a strong memory of my first overnighter on “Bernard” my Gilles Berthoud Adventure Touring Bike.  I loaded him up the same way I had always loaded “Sky” my Rivendell Bleriot.  I pushed off and on the first small down hill immediately noticed a pronounced shimmy in the front wheel. WTH?,  I got off checked to see that all was attached correctly, it was.  I fought the shimmy the entire day (I should note that the Bike Hermit was not on this ride with me.) The return the next day was a bit better but not much.  I was crushed, thinking I had made a big mistake in buying this bike.  I expressed my dismay to the Bike Hermit and his first words – “Stacy this bike has a low trail geometry, you can’t pack it the same way as you did your Rivendell”…  “Oh”, I replied, “I didn’t know there was a difference between touring bikes.”

[Bike Hermit: “trail” refers to how far the center of the tire footprint on the road surface falls behind the imaginary point where the steering axis hits the road and it is a function of head tube angle, fork rake and tire size.

Trail is the distance between the two lines where they hit the road.
Trail is the distance between the two lines where they hit the road.
]

20141219_131824_resized
In this photo,the rear panniers on “Chief”, the A Homer Hilsen by Rivendell, sit much higher than my panniers on “Bernard”, the Gilles Berthoud. Typically, in our experience, a Rivendell bike does better with the weight on the back of the bike.

One thing I have learned in the last 15 months is that Bernard performs best with the load distributed between the front and the back.  He has these amazing custom Gilles Berthoud Racks that have low rails for panniers.  For short trips, I don’t really want to carry 4 panniers along with my front bag so getting the weight balanced can be a challenge.  On a short trip with a smaller load, I am better off with the weight being heavier in the front than the rear.  Attaching panniers to the low rider rack in the front and then strapping my sleeping bag on the rear rack makes for a much smoother ride.  Our recent trip to Texas I wasn’t really thinking and I had my lower rear rack but not my lower front rack so I had some challenges in getting my load balanced – I basically carried all of our food in my GB front rack bag. Then had the tent (sans poles) and my clothes in the rear panniers.  Next trip I am going to go ahead and bring 4 panniers, putting the smaller ones on the rear and the larger ones on the front.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
This photo of “Bernard” with a full set of panniers demonstrates how the low trail design is meant to be implemented.
atouringbike
Surly Long Haul Truckers and Surly Disc Truckers seem to be very forgiving when it comes to packing.

Obviously there are other design and construction details and considerations that affect how a bike handles when loaded. The type and design of racks used can affect handling too, as can the type and size and inflation pressure of tires. Most bikes billed as touring bikes should have the characteristics which will make them able to handle a load without becoming squirrely or unpredictable in handling. But every design will have its own unique nuances. Keeping in mind that an unloaded touring bike with rider aboard will have more weight on the rear wheel adds heft to the theory of biasing the added weight to the front of the bike.

The bottom line is that their are many factors which contribute to how a bike handles when carrying a rider and a passive load. That awareness means that, with some trial and error, it should be possible to optimize the load carrying setup on almost any bike.

Categories
Our Trips Texas

Please Come To Texas

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

New cowboy hat, of course

In 2010 The Bike Hermit took his first bike jaunt in Texas.  Titled Texas Buckaroos, his adventure is well chronicled on crazyguyonabike.com.  Since then, I have heard about his trip pretty much Every Single Day; how amazing this part of Texas is, how friendly the people are, how we need to move to Texas, how Boise is actually hotter and colder than Alpine – you name it, I’ve heard it.  Being who I am,  my initial reaction was there is no way I am moving to Texas.  Those who know me know that  I tend to balk when others rave about certain places or things – yes even when The Bike Hermit is the one doing the raving :).  After a few years of his pushing Texas I finally let the brain crack open and began to soften to the idea of at least going for a visit.  It took a few years to line up all the stars but suddenly the idea was becoming a reality.  Originally we planned to go in early 2015 but with everything slipping into place we decided we’d planned enough and we’d just go for it.  Again, to those who know us, this should come a no surprise.
20141209_173840_resized

From the start of our Texas Bike Ride I vowed to have no agenda, no expectations and to allow each and every day unfold of it’s own accord.  A little self congratulations are in order as I think I came pretty darn close to achieving that goal.  (okay there may have been a few moments and there were some very choice words thrown around on a particularly nasty section of Glenn Springs Road in Big Bend National Park)glenspringsugly2 But as always when riding, it got better. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Everyone approaches bike touring in their own way.  We all have our little rituals and habits.  One of mine is to make up songs as I ride.  My theme usually involves what ever I see or experience on the the ride.  During our 3 weeks in Texas I wrote a great little riding ditty.  My singing is totally restricted to riding my bike with Jim either way out in front or somewhere behind me.  I can carry a perfect tune, as long as no one is listening.  Here are the words: (the tune is The Heart of Saturday Night by Tom Waits)

Little Yellow Flowers growing by the road, tucked in with the cactus and a flowering yucca plant too.
Bike riding in Texas, having a marvelous time.

Got the wind at my back, the sun in the sky, riding along with my favorite guy.
That’s why I like Texas, have a wonderful time

So, what do I think of Texas?  I will answer that with, we are busy planning the next trip.  As the standard response from a certain someone. “Just listen to the Bike Hermit and all will be fine.” 20141219_102002_resized West Texas is a country unto itself.  I am a lover of wide open spaces and certainly got my fill of beautiful, quiet, rugged country.20141219_131812_resized

Are we moving to Texas? Well that move, if ever, is certainly a longs ways off.  I  look forward to doing quite a bit more Texas bike pedaling and have many more places to explore.  The isolated beauty, while amazing to visit, may become a bit tarnished if I were to experience it day in and day out.

You can never go back – a mantra of mine for sure.  I believe one will never have the same experience twice so when we do go back, I will once again embrace the adventure with no expectations and just look forward to enjoying the beauty Texas has to offer.  Have a wonderful time.

20141211_212351_resized_1
IMG_20141213_180515346_HDR

Categories
Bags/Panniers/Racks Handlebar Bag Panniers Touring Bike Accessories

New Products From Lone Peak Packs

made in USA

Lone Peak, in Salt Lake City, Utah, has long been a maker of high quality bike touring bags. Gary Hubbert bought the company a few years ago and moved operations to Marysville, WA. We like the fact that Lone Peak is fairly small and so Gary is able and willing to consider our input into products and design. Last year he took his growler pack and added pannier clips to it. Then he made us a run of the packs with our logo silkscreened on the front. As far as we know, this growler pack with pannier clips is a Bike Touring News exclusive! We have a few left and they are now on sale….even better!growler pannier

Micro Rack Pack. We have been looking for someone to make a small bag to fit on the Nitto M-12, M-18 and Mark’s Rack for a while, and Gary exceeded our expectations with the Micro Rack Pack. The bottoms are fairly rigid and the sides are reinforced too, so the bag maintains its shape. Four long hook and loop straps secure the bag to the rack rails. Also new are the welded zippers which makes the bag more weather resistant.

rack top bag
Lone Peak Micro Rack Pack
small rack top bag
Lone Peak Micro Rack Pack

Also new for 2014 is the Swayback Rack Pack. This is a sleek, versatile rack top bag for a rear rack. It has a total capacity of 725 cubic inches/ 11.9 liters. The top opens fully for easy access and there are two large side pockets. The sides and bottom are reinforced with a dense foam for rigidity, and all the zippers are welded.

buckles
Fastex buckles for a secure attachment on the Lone Peak Swayback
rack top bag
The Swayback Rack Pack
rack pack opening
Fully opening top with welded zippers.

New pannier shock cords. Gary has also modified the lower shock cord attachment on all the panniers. Previously the shock cords were anchored near the lower part of the bag and there was no way to adjust the tension on the s-hook if the lower rack rail was not in quite the right position. The result would be a floppy, rattling attachment. Now, each end of the shock cord passes through a barrel clip anchored directly underneath the upper pannier clips. The longer cord loop with s-hook attached goes underneath a web strap near the bottom of the pannier. The tension on the cord and s-hook is adjustable because the cord is simply knotted above the barrel clips. Older bags can be retrofitted with the new hardware since the retrofitting kit includes a web strap which bolts into the same holes used by old style shock cords.

rear of Lone Peak pannier
The new shock cord attachment. This can be retrofitted to older bags too.

We have used Lone Peak products extensively over the last few years and have found them to be extremely durable and functional. The panniers secure to most racks with less sway and bounce than panniers from better known and much larger manufacturers. Gary is not resting on the company’s laurels either. He even has a fully waterproof pannier which he showed us at Interbike 2014 and as soon as those become available we will stock them.

Categories
Our Trips Texas

The “Roll Your A**” Tour- West Texas and the Big Bend of the Rio Grande

It’s Christmas Eve 2014 and 50 degrees colder here in Santa Fe than what we have been accustomed to. After spending 14 days in west Texas and the Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park and sleeping in the tent or the teardrop trailer we are treating ourselves to two nights in relative luxury at The Lodge at Santa Fe. Tonight we’ll be taking the Christmas Eve Canyon Road Farolito Walk, an apparently popular city event, and ending up at The Palace to listen to some country music!
We have the touring bikes with us and left the truck for two nights in Alpine, TX while we rode to Davis Mountains State Park, down to Marfa and then back to Alpine. From there we drove down to Study Butte near Terlingua and left the truck for three nights while we rode around Big Bend National Park. A more detailed journal can be found here (link will take you to crazyguyonabike dot com)

rider in Big Bend
Riding in Big Bend National Park, a study in scale.

Sierra del Carmen
Riding toward Boquillas, Coahuilla Mexico with the Sierra Del Carmen in the background.

You may be wondering about the title and the name of the tour. We were parked outside the Army surplus store in Farmington, New Mexico, having just purchased and installed a carrier for our five gallon water container, when a white man of late middle age pulled up in his large Dodge Ram pickup truck, and walked over to ask about out teardrop trailer. When I told him where we were headed (West Texas) he asked if I had a gun because they, Mexicans, “will roll your a**”. That ended our conversation. At first I considered that he may be right and that I was foolish for bringing my wife down to the land of marauding banditos. But as we drove through the trashy, rundown outskirts of Farmington where iron bars adorn all the doors and windows of the homes and businesses, I began to consider that maybe he was not right. Maybe he lives in a bubble of fear and hatred and xenophobia, emboldened by hate radio and by Fox News. I was angered by the fact that just because I look like him he felt like he could vomit his racist venom on me. Then I began to feel a little sorry for him because his attitudes keep him locked in a shitty little world.
In the end, we weren’t rolled. We rode our bikes and hiked along the Rio Grande and we camped under the stars in some of the most magnificent country on the planet. The people we met were friendly and courteous, some of them going out of their way to see if we needed anything, or to offer us places to park the truck, or recommending places to go and things to see. I’m sure there are many places along the border where his predictions could come true, but there are many places in American cities, such as Farmington, where they could come true as well. I’m certain that if I looked hard enough I could even find someone who looks like me who would be happy to “roll my a**.

Categories
Touring Bike Accessories Water Bottle Cages

A Visit To King Cage

outside view
King Cage World Headquarters in Durango, CO.

We have used and sold King Cages for years. Ron Andrews started the company in Durango, Colorado and recently moved into  new, larger accommodations. We stopped in on our way to West Texas and Ron gave us the tour. The price of admission was four Sew Your Oats oatmeal cookies from Bread bakery in Durango for Ron and the crew.
This post includes a cool video of the making of a cage. Ron designed and built all the jigs he uses and it’s pretty cool to see another small company making thing and employing people in the USA.

Ron with a bottle cage
Ron with the Many things Cage. It can’t hold “anything” but it can hold many things.

Ron has a list of people waiting to get their hands on the new Manythings Cage and now, we are on the list too. The Kargo Cage is a must IMHO for any serious bike tourist and the Barbell is a clever design and a nice complement for the Mud Flask!

welding a cage
One welding station

welding a bottle cageThe other welding station.

mud flask on Brooks saddle
King Cage Mud Flask with Brooks mount.
Categories
Lights and Electronics

busch+müller Battery Powered Bicycle Lights Review

DISCLAIMERS

-The Bike Hermit started this post and turned it over to Ryan to do the un-boxing and comparisons of the lights reviewed here. During the final edit it became apparent that the Bike Hermit’s contribution was somewhat incoherent and truculent. That part was removed in favor of Ryan’s more measured and lucid approach. The Bike Hermit did complete the last part- “Road Test”

-We are not giving advice here on how to light your bike and/or yourself. Each rider should take the responsibility of knowing local laws pertaining to bicycle safety and for using common sense.

In Germany, bicycles are legally considered to be part of traffic, and so the laws (Straßenverkehrszulassungsordnung, abbreviated StVZO) are very specific. In fact all bikes over 11 KG are required to be fitted with dynamo powered lights. Even lighter, “racing” bikes are required to have lights but these can be battery powered. And every bike light sold in Germany must have an approval from the department of transportation. Blinking headlights or taillights are not legal. (need to get me a lobbyist)

-Boise City Code Section 10-14-03 says:
When in use at nighttime, a red reflector on the rear visible from a distance of three hundred feet (300′) when directly in front of lawful upper beams of a motor vehicle, and a forward-facing white light attached either to the bicycle or the bicyclist which is visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet (500′) in front of the bicycle. A bicycle shall be equipped with a frontfacing
white or yellow reflector when the bicyclist uses a generator powered light which is unlit when the bicycle is stopped.

######
———

B&M Battery-Powered Headlight Comparision

We talk a lot about dynamo-powered headlights around here, and for good reason because there is a lot to like about them.  However, dynamo-powered systems have their drawbacks.  First, the light is wedded to the bike it is installed on and doesn’t easily switch over to another bike.  Also, while some dynamo-powered headlights are quite inexpensive the entire kit can cost a good deal when the hub, wheel build, installation, etc are factored in.  Depending on the hub and light used, the resistance can be noticeable.  Exposed wiring often lends an untidy appearance on an otherwise sleek and elegant machine.  Dynamo hubs can also add a significant chunk of weight.

Even with the excellent dynamo-powered lights available today, there is still need for a well designed battery-powered light that solves all of the above problems associated with dynamo lighting while still providing useful lighting.  However, most of the lights widely available in bike shops across the US fall into one of two categories: “to-be-seen lights” with limited ability to illuminate the terrain and high-output, flood-style lights designed to turn a pitch-black singletrack into broad daylight.  For most on-road riding, neither is ideal.  A middle ground must be sought.

The main problem with either style of garden-variety LED lights commonly used by US riders is that the beam is typically round and uncontrolled, spilling out wildly in all directions.  With a light of the dim, “to-be-seen” style the rider is the only one at a disadvantage.  Even fairly low-powered LEDs are bright enough to be seen at a great distance by other road users.  What these lights don’t do is illuminate the road ahead of their rider.  On back roads, streets or paths without lighting, this can produce anxious moments.  Potholes, cracks, road debris and other obstacles are invisible until it is too late.

On the flipside, with some of the more powerful lights designed for off-road riding the beam can be absolutely blinding for anyone facing the rider.  This is not only a problem for oncoming traffic but also dangerous for the rider who is rendered nearly invisible by their blinding light!  On a more technical note, we must also ask what good is all that power when half of the light’s beam aims above the horizon line?  Many consumers equate a large light output number with a quality light but all the photons in the world are useless if they are not aimed purposefully.

Enter busch+müller with their battery-powered LED lights modeled after their excellent dynamo systems.  These are actual bicycle headlights, not merely “flashlights with a handlebar mount” as Peter White calls the inferior LED lights described above.  We are currently stocking several of these lights that are ideal for any bicycle where a dynamo system is impractical.   Let’s take a closer look at two of them: the Ixon IQ and Ixon Core.

They look very different on the surface but are remarkably similar in function.  They are priced within a few dollars of one another.  The light output of each lamp is nearly identical, with a claimed maximum output of 50 Lux for the Core and 40 Lux for the IQ.  Both lights also have a lower-output, battery-conserving “efficiency” mode where they emit a 10 Lux beam, which is the minimum standard brightness for bicycle headlights under German law.  The key shared feature that distinguishes these headlights from the lights that most American riders are accustomed to is the top-weighted, manicured beam pattern manifested through B&M’s magnificent mirrors.  We’ll look more closely at the beam patterns shortly.

When compared to wimpy “to-be-seen” lights or the overpowered, uncontrolled glare of the MTB-style floods, either of these German-made lights from Busch & Muller will do an excellent job of not only making a rider visible to other traffic but also allowing them to see the road they’re riding without blinding other users.

Un-Boxing

However, there are some key differences that set them apart that we should explore to help those looking for a high-quality battery-powered headlight decide between these two excellent options.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

First, let’s dig into the Ixon IQ.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Here’s what comes in the package: headlight with handlebar mount, wall charger, rechargeable AA batteries, instructions.  A two-prong adaptor for US wall outlets (not pictured) is also included at no additional charge when purchasing from Bike Touring News.  The Ixon IQ is also available without charger or batteries for use with your own AA cells.  B&M’s IQ mirror (used in the Schmidt Edelux, B+M’s own Lumotec IQ Cyo and others) is the key technology in this lamp.  The power system also makes this light unique.  The ability to use standard AA batteries lends a level of versatility if the charger is lost or for riders who are heading off the grid.

PA2126811

The use of AA cells rather than a built-in battery adds a bit of heft and bulk to the light but it doesn’t look too ungainly when mounted.  The handlebar bracket has three adjustable positions to fit 22.2, 25.4/26.0 or 31.8mm handlebar sections and is locked down with a quick-release thumbscrew.  The mount also allows a few degrees of horizontal adjustment for precise centering of the beam.

PA2126891

The batteries are very easy to install.  You simply open the hinged case by pressing a small button on the rear of the light…

PA2126931

…then slide the batteries into their clearly-marked receptacles before swinging the case closed again.  The second set of contacts is built into the lower portion of the hinged housing.  The door closes firmly and securely to complete the circuit and prevent any unwanted movement of the batteries.

PA2126941

With the batteries installed, the Ixon IQ charges through a port in the underside of the light body, circumventing the need to remove the batteries to charge externally.

PA2126991

Okay, now let’s have a look at the Ixon Core.  Though similar in function to the Ixon IQ, the Ixon Core is immediately distinguished by its silver finish, slimmer profile and the use of an integral lithium-ion battery rather than replaceable AA cells.  This is both a blessing and a curse.  The Li-Ion battery is lightweight and cleanly integrated but will operate over a finite number of charge cycles and could be outlived by the rest of the light.  However, I suspect that many users will appreciate the sleeker look of the Core and the ease of USB charging without concern for battery lifespan.

PA212656

In the package you’ll find the Ixon Core light, adhesive rubber stickers, heavy-duty rubber attachment straps, instructions, USB charging cable with wall adaptor, and two-prong adaptor for US outlets (included at no extra charge when purchasing through Bike Touring News).

PA2126591

The Ixon Core charges via a USB port in the rear of the light, drawing power from a computer, wall adaptor or any other device with USB output.  The light under the button glows blue while charging and switches off once a full charge is attained.

PA2126601

The rubber fixing straps are very tough and can be difficult to stretch around your handlebars but provide a very secure mount when in place.  Like the Ixon IQ, the Core’s mount allows the light to pivot horizontally to allow centering of the beam when the light is mounted off-center from the bicycle’s centerline.

PA2126791

So, now that we’ve taken a good look at the lights themselves lets compare the two beams and their relative merits.  First, here’s the Ixon IQ with its “high and tight” beam pattern.  Note that the beam’s intensity is focused high to illuminate the road far ahead but with a sharp cutoff to avoid blinding oncoming users.  When aimed from handlebar height, this beam provides very even illumination of the road surface.  Very little light spills off the sides or bottom of the illuminated area.

PA2127061

Here’s the Ixon Core for comparison.  The beams are very similar in that they have a brighter top section for far-off illumination and a sharp cut-off at the top of the beam.  However, the Core spills a bit more light around the sides of the main lighting area and especially at the bottom of the beam.  To me, it appears that the extra 10 Lux of claimed output spills out in these areas rather than extending visibility in the center of the beam but we’ll look to the results of some road testing to confirm this.

PA2127131

Here are the two lights presented side-by-side.  The tight, focused beam of the IQ is easily distinguished from the broader, more diffuse output of the Core.  In addition to their different charging and power characteristics, the differing beam patterns will make one light or the other a better fit for different riders.

In my estimation, the IQ’s beam will be better suited to faster riding on terrain without tight corners while the Core will perform best at slower speeds and in tighter terrain.

PA2127251

Road Test

I headed out last night after dark with both lights mounted side by side on the handlebars to compare the beams. After a few minutes, the IQ light turned off and I realized the batteries were dead. This illustrates one of the downsides of battery powered lights; maybe you forget to charge it at work and you don’t have spare batteries so you end up riding the last half of the commute in the dark. There is a low battery indicator LED on the top of the light and, if in high powers mode when the battery starts getting low, the beam automatically switches to low power.

The on/off  buttons have a positive action and require being held down with some force for a second before the light turns off or on. So if the light is stuffed into a bag or a jersey pocket there is little chance of either of these lights being turned on or off accidentally.

Lucky for all, I rolled out of bed before daylight and accomplished the road test in the morning.  Both lights have a similar beam pattern and I was hard pressed to tell if the Ixon Core, which is rated at 50 lux output was any brighter than the 40 lux Ixon IQ.  Both lights create a well defined trapezoidal pattern on the road surface. The narrow end of the trapezoid appears a few feet in front of the tire (when mounted on the handlebars) and the two sides of the trapezoid diverge until the entire beam is the width of a two lane road at perhaps 150-180 feet from the bike. I describe the beam as though it was painted on the road, and that that is the impression I am distinctly left with. Almost no light spills outside of the trapezoidal beam lighting the road, except very close to the bike. The IQ light casts a dim crescent shaped light pattern if front of the front wheel. (which can be seen in the side by side comparison of the beams in the last photo above) The Core light projects a relatively focused beam out each side of the lens 90 degrees to the direction of travel, which makes the rider extremely visible from the sides. My observation is that the Core lights the road in a little more even and uniform way. The IQ light has a little triangular shadow in the near part of the beam and the upper edge of the beam (the wide part of the trapezoid farthest from the bike) is a little fuzzy compared to the Core.

Either one of these lights would meet the needs of most commuting and touring cyclists who don’t use dynamo powered lights. They do a fantastic job of lighting the road surface. They don’t do a good job of lighting the sides of the road next to the rider nor do they illuminate things like overhead tree branches.