Category: Drivetrain

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Cockpit Drivetrain Touring Bike Components

Bar End Shifters a.k.a. Sneaky Petes

I’ve talked about my preference for down tube shifters, now I thought I would give equal time to probably the most popular method of shifting gears on a modern touring bike. That would be bar end shifters. Being inserted into the ends of the handlebars and held secure by means of an expanding wedge these shifters make it possible to shift gears without taking the hands off the handlebars.

Shimano Bar End shift levers

Ergo (Campagnolo) or STI (Shimano) accomplish the same thing by incorporating the shifters with the brake levers, but these only work on drop style handlebars and they are significantly more complex and prone to failure and/or wearing out. Some really old guys remember the days before STI type shifters when bike racers with bar end shifters could shift into a higher gear in preparation for opening a can of whoop-ass on the group without being too obvious…hence the moniker “sneaky petes”.

Bar end shifters will fit in most drop or road style handlebars and the Nitto Moustache bar as well as some in upright bars such as the Nitto North Road aka the Albatross. The limiting factor being the inside diameter of the bar tube where the expanding wedge fits. The simple design and absence of numerous moving parts makes for reliable shifting even on the most demanding and lengthy tours. The Shimano version is made to work with either 9 or 8 rear cogs in index mode. The index mode can be disabled allowing the shifter to be used with any number of rear cogs and even when the derailleur or derailleur hanger gets bent. A nice feature for the bicycle traveler. There is a friction only (no index mode) bar end shifter designed by Rivendell too.

The shifters go on like this:

Oh yeah, and the Rivendell shifters, even though they come with their own pods (the part that goes inside the handlebar), will mount on the Shimano pods. To be safe, if using either one of these use a Shimano rear derailleur too.

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Cockpit Drivetrain Touring Bike Components

What I Like About Down-Tube Shifters

Downtube shifters are shift levers mounted on the downtube of the bicycle.  Not everybody will feel comfortable taking their hand completely off the handlebar in order to shift but for those of us who don’t mind doing so, downtube shifters offer the most minimalistic of gear shifting solutions.

Shifters on the downtube means taking one hand off the handlebar in order to shift.
Shimano Dura-Ace Downtube Shifters

These Shimano shifters have an “index” option on the right lever which means there are eight detentes or pauses signaled by audible clicks for each gear as the lever is moved back or forth. The left lever works the front derailleur and doesn’t have an index option. Rivendell is producing downtube levers without the index option for the real caveman in us all. The right lever can be used to change one, two or more gears up through all nine at one stroke. Kind of a nice feature. And the transfer of movement to the derailleur is super positive, mostly because there is only one short piece of housing at the rear derailleur and no housing on the cable to the front derailleur. Housing compresses and adds friction to the system.

Shorter runs of cable and no housing make down tube shifters more positive.
Only one short piece of housing on the rear shift cable.

I didn’t even realize it until I started reading a thread in Bike Forums about using downtube shifters, but to use these I actually reach across the downtube through the frame with my right hand in order to shift the front changer, the lever for which is on the left side of the bicycle.

Reaching through the frame to shift

One bike tourist I know uses Campy ergo shifters which means the shifters are incorporated with the brake levers. He carries a downtube shift lever and a piece of cable with him in case the ergo shifters fail. Keep in mind that in order to use downtube shifters, the bike must have brazed on attachments on the downtube. Those look like this:

Brazed on fittings to accept downtube shifters.

For those who appreciate a stripped down approach to touring and the peace of mind in having bike parts which are not failure prone, downtube shifters might be a consideration.

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Drivetrain Hermit's Workshop Touring Bike Components

FiberFix Emergency Spoke Replacement Kit

The FiberFix Emergency Spoke Repair Kit

We just got these in at the Bike Touring News Store.
The FiberFix replacement spoke is an aramid cord with a metal “cam” attached. When a spoke breaks the wheel will have a wobble which will probably rub on the bike frame and or the brake pads. If not repaired right away, other spokes may start to go as well. For the mechanically challenged, when a spoke breaks the FIberFix spoke replacement is a good alternative to removing wheels, tires and possibly cassettes. Just thread the included attachment piece into the remaining spoke nipple on the rim, thread the cord down to the hub and back up to the piece threaded into the nipple and tighten.

Here are some reviews at crazyguyonabike.
Might want to bring two!

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Drivetrain Touring Bike Components

One Bike, One Pedal, Many Shoes and Shimano’s A530

I am quite content riding “Sky”, my Rivendell Bleriot .

Sky, after a successful trip to the Saturday Market

In fact my Voodoo, set up with a front shock for more aggressive trail riding is gathering dust in the garage because I have so much fun tooling around on Sky.  I also have my  fair share of shoes and love nothing more than being fashionable while pedaling  efficiently when running errands or meeting friends for dinner and drinks.  On the other hand, I like to wear my Shimano bike shoes with clipless pedals for longer rides, weekend rides and touring.  What I hate is changing pedals.  After breaking my finger, a helmet and giving myself a black eye riding my son’s bike (so I could wear shoes that matched my outfit) the Bike Hermit gave me a set of Shimano A530 Clipless SPD/Platform Road Pedals. One side is platform, the other works with my SPD clipless cleat on my bike shoe.

Shimano A530 dual bike pedal
Problem solved with a SPD/platform pedal

Now it doesn’t matter what shoe I am wearing, I can ride Sky pretty much anywhere at anytime.  The other nice feature on longer rides has been the ability to opt out of my clipless, flip the pedal over and still get a nice grip on my biking shoe.  As I have been battling a tendon issue having the interchangeable option has been terrific.  If we are bike camping or bike touring, at the end of the day, I can easily slip off my bike shoes and  wear my sandals if we chose to go exploring once we have set up camp.

Shimano a530 with a street shoe
Great grip with my tennis shoe on the platform side
SPD side Shimana A530
flip it over and my SPD cleat clips right in.
Clipped in for A Sunday Afternoon Bike ride
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Drivetrain Touring Bike Components

Tire Sizes – Actual vs. Nominal

I had a question from a customer about actual widths for some models of the Schwalbe Marathon tires we carry. He is concerned about getting tires that will fit without rubbing on his fenders. I figure others probably have the same questions, so I have compiled a chart showing the actual measurements of some of the tires we carry. I will be updating and adding to the list. If there is a tire you want to know about, and it is not shown, just post it on the comments and I will try to provide actual dimensions for you.

I was going to go into some detail about tire sizing nomenclature but, as usual, the late great Sheldon Brown does a better job than anybody else could. So if you are unsure about what the size markings on your tires mean, check out Sheldon’s page.

All tires will be marked or stamped with the size. 700c and 28″ are two different nomenclatures for the same diameter.

As can be seen a 700c or 28" tire is actually neither. The numbers refer to the diameter of the tire when mounted on a rim and inflated.
The ISO/ERTRO measurement is the first pair of numbers

The ISO/ERTRO number is the most important in determining if a tire will fit on a particular rim. The second number in the pair is the diameter of the rim measured where the tire bead will seat.

This tire has a 622 ERTRO diameter and will fit on any rim with the same diameter measured to the points where the tire bead seats.

So called 29’r tires fit on rims with an ERTRO diameter of 622, but generally have a more voluminous casing so the overall diameter and widths will be greater.

So on to the Tire Width Chart. I measured the width of the inflated tire with a pair of calipers. The “height” is measured from the outer edge of the rim to the road contact surface of the inflated tire.

Measuring width
The "height" measurement
Chart shows nominal vs actual tire sizes.
Schwalbe Tire Width Chart
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Drivetrain Touring Bike Components

Pedals- Power Grips

On my everyday bike I have been using a Power Grips Pedal Kit.

Power Grips High Performance pedal kit

These pedals use a unique diagonal strap to hold the rider’s foot more or less in a stable position. A metal bracket screws into the holes on the front face plate of the pedal and secures one end of the strap.

The other end of the strap is bolted to the rear of the pedal on the diagonal. The straps and brackets are sold separately too so any pedals with screw holes for toe clips can be used.

Sliding the foot in at a slight angle and then straightening it causes the strap to tighten.

Entry is at a slight angle.
Straightening the foot increases the tension on the straps.

Nearly six years of almost daily riding and they are holding up quite well, thank you. The sealed bearings are still smooth thanks in no small part to the threaded dust cap which keeps the road junk out.

Note the threaded cap that screws into the pedal body providing an excellent seal. Cromoly steel pedal axle.

The high performance version uses aluminum alloy for the body and cage, which for the touring cyclist makes more sense from a durability standpoint the the sport version which incorporates a plastic body. Sealed cartridge bearings and a steel axle contribute to low maintenance and longevity. Theoretically the pedals could be rebuilt if the bearings became worn by removing the axle and pressing out the old bearings and pressing new ones in.

I like these pedals for around town because literally any shoe will fit and the leather strap won’t scuff them up. They are easy in and out and they hold my foot enough that I don’t have to worry about slipping off the pedal. Starting off from a stop can be a little sketchy because I never know if  the straps will be on the top or bottom. On a pedal with toe clips the clips are heavy enough that the pedal will always be upside down, and it’s easy to use the quill on the pedal to flip it over and slide the foot in. These pedals would work great for a person who is unsure about using clipless pedals for bike touring.

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Drivetrain Touring Bike Components

Bicycle Touring Tires

This is literally where the rubber meets the road. It’s sort of a boring topic but tire problems could end a bicycle tour quicker than almost anything I can think of. And a flat tire is probably the most likely mechanical repair a traveling bicycler will need to master. Luckily, there are many very good options when it comes to bicycle touring tires.
There is a wealth of information stamped on the side of a bicycle tire.  Here you will see the size of the tire. For example 700 X 32 for a 700c diameter tire or 26 X 1.75 for a 26 inch diameter tire.   The second number, after the “X”,  is an indication of the width of the inflated tire. Depending on your bike, you may either have 26 inch wheels or 700c wheels ( there are other sizes of wheels, such as 650b or 27 inch, but those are not as common)
You will want to carry one or two extra tires with you depending on how far it is between bike shops on your route. So make sure you know what size your bike takes. Most tires come in a “folding” version, which means the bead, or the part of the tire that hooks on the rim, is made of flexible material and the tire can be folded or rolled into a small package.

The width of your tires will affect rolling resistance, comfort and durability.
It may be counter-intuitive but for a given inflation pressure a wider tire will have lower rolling resistance than a narrower tire. And lower inflation pressure, to a point, means a silkier ride because of the greater air volume acting as a cushion.
A wider tire with more air volume will also help protect against pinch flats- the pinching of the inner tube between the tire and the wheel rim when hitting a sharp bump.

Tires with a smooth tread, even no tread, will work best for rides which will be mostly on paved surfaces. Bike tires behave differently than automobile tires and grooves in the tread of a bike tire do nothing to increase grip. In fact, the more rubber actually touching the road, the better. The tire maker Schwalbe explains this better than I can. If you’re riding off-road or on un-paved roads a knobby tread pattern is more important.

zion bike trip
note the 650B makes a great touring tire

Look for tires made specifically for touring or urban riding. These tires will have layers of  puncture resistant materials such as Kevlar or Aramid under the tread. Usually the casing of these tires will be strong enough to handle the extra weight and loads of a touring bicycle. Sometimes the rubber tread itself will be significantly thicker than the tread on a racing or training tire.

I have used the Panaracer brand T-Serv tire for my tours the last two years and I have been very happy with the performance. These are not super burly tires but I am not heavy and I travel relatively light. The tread wears very well on these tires and the Aramid belt works well to prevent punctures. The cord used in the casing is strong, but the tire is still supple and feels smooth to ride.

Schwalbe Marathon is a line of tires which includes tires made for bike touring.  Everything from tires for light touring to tires made for the extreme expedition adventure.

Don’t scrimp when it comes to buying tires. You will have enough things to worry about and enough challenges to keep you busy on your tour.